Sunshine attempts to overcome the fear of climbing.
Black Diamond athlete Fred Nicole is a true master boulderer, having been at the forefront of the sport for more than two decades. Soft-spoken and thoughtful, he has developed benchmark problems from Hueco Tanks to Rocklands to Fontainebleau to his home forests of Switzerland, all in with his trademark silent, graceful power. An icon to boulderers around the world, Fred Nicole was a perfect fit to filmed by Bernado Gimenez for our Video Profile series. Nicole took Gimenez on a tour of some of his off-the-radar spots in Switzerland and sagely spoke about his philosophies in climbing and in life. A personal and unique profile, this video is truly a special window into the world of one of climbing's great ambassadors.
ispo Bouldercup 2011: Bouldern mit Messeflair
Nur noch wenige Tage, dann fällt in München der Startschuss zur Bouldercup-Saison des Deutschen Alpenvereins. Am 5. Und 6. Februar geht es bei der nationalen Serie im Bouldern wieder um Flash, Top, Zwischenwertung und Sieg.
An die 100 Starter in München
Der erste DAV-Bouldercup des Jahres wird im Rahmen der ispo Messe auf dem Messegelände ausgetragen und bietet Sportlern und Zuschauern ein unvergessliches Flair. Wann kann man schon mal zwischen Produktneuheiten und vor tausenden Messebesuchern klettern? Das werden sich auch die besten Boulderer der Landesverbände gedacht haben, denn fast 100 von ihnen haben sich für den Wettkampf bereits angemeldet. Sie kämpfen zunächst am Samstag in der Qualifikation um die insgesamt 40 Plätze im Halbfinale, das dann am ersten Messetag, dem 6. Februar um 14 Uhr starten wird.
Neumärker und Tauporn 2010 erfolgreich
Ob es wie im vergangenen Jahr zwei Überraschungssieger geben wird, entscheidet sich im sonntäglichen Finale. In der Halle A6 geht es ab 17:30 Uhr um die Wurst, die besten sechs Damen und Herren werden dann versuchen, den Sieg nach Hause zu bouldern. 2010 gewannen Luisa Neumärker vom Sächsischen Bergsteigerbund und Thomas Tauporn (Schwäbisch-Gmünd), die Gesamtsieger der Serie im vergangenen Jahr hießen Juliane Wurm (Dortmund) und Stefan Danker (Landshut), die auch am Wochenende in München mit dabei sein werden.
Bergleben.de ist auf der Messe mit dabei und berichtet in den Tagen nach dem Event mit Videos, Interviews, vielen Bilder und allen Infos zum ersten nationalen Kletterhighlight des Jahres im Eventspecial.
- Halbfinale: 14.00 -- 16.00 (Intervall: 4 B à 4')
- Quote Finale: je 6; Isolationsschluss Finale: nach Halbfinale
- Finale Damen/Herren: 17.30 -- 19.30 Uhr
- Siegerehrung im Anschluss, danach Marmot Snow Ice & Rock Summit Party mit Liveband!!
Die weiteren Stationen des DAV Bouldercups 2011: 29./30.04. in Kitzbühel (AUT), 11./12.06. in Frankfurt und am 09.07. in Überlingen.
Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson's next stop on his 2010/2011 global bouldering tour is a two-month stopover at the iconic blocs of Fontainebleau, France. The video below shows Robinson taking down a host of stout classics of the forest, including Ubik Assis (8B). Sabotaged by a string of bad weather days, Robinson jetted over to the UK to take down a few classics there as well, one of which makes a guest appearance in this vid.■Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson bouldering in Fontainebleau, France
Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson had an exceptionally successful trip to Fontainebleau earlier this year, dispatching numerous testpieces near the highest end of difficulty. Here is an insightful and inspiring video of Robinson in Font, put together by fellow BD athlete Chris Schulte, as well as an intro (below) written by Schulte.
Paul Robinson’s monumental ticklist for his 2010/11 visit to Fontainebleau included some of the world’s most difficult boulder problems. Paul’s hits included rarely repeated lines like Sebastien Frigault’s Trip Hop (8c), the first ascent (after a very discouraging hold break ) of the crimpy and dynamic Sideways Daze (8b), and the second ascent of Kevin Lopata’s mysterious, difficult and morphologically challenging line Force du Destin (8b+). Paul also fired off a quiver of modern classics through all grades and styles, hammering out what we’ve come to expect from him in the overhang department, as well as cutting through an impressive array of slopers and slabs.
In this series of clips, Paul knocks out a tough series of edges, battles a loping compression classic, and discusses the educational process involved in getting to know the style by which the forest has gained renown. It can be a tricky business climbing in Font—what “should be” a warm up can easily (and often) turn into a full-blown project, or a “done once, never again” experience. One may be roundly trounced five grades below one’s limit, only to breeze up an 8b of a different vein or style in just a half hour later. The hairpin learning curve can be a daunting obstacle for most, but for others it’s the source of the draw and appeal of this giant among bouldering areas. No doubt, the school of Font will teach you a lesson you’ll take with you for life.
— Chris Schulte
Climbs in order; Cuts like a knife (intro) (V5), Slush Puppy (V4), Redneck (V6), Eight Ball (V2), Genesis (V3).■CTNPCD: HP40 Edition Part 2
Climbs in order: Getcha Some (V6), The Wasp (V2), Boomslang (V6). Part one is available on Adam Johnson's Vimeo http://vimeo.com/user5919787 or on adamjohnsonphoto.com and huckleberrygeorge.blogspot.com■CTNPCD: HP40 Edition Part 3
Part three of three of climbs that normal people can do: HP40 edition. Problems featured (in order): Hammerhead (V5), Orange Slice (V3), The Thespian (V3), and Honky Tonkin' (V4). adamjohnsonphoto.com
If you missed part 2. Here it is:
Lucas Menegatti climbs The big Island , Elephunk and Gecko in font .■Big Island 8C , Progress .
Music by Bonobo .
more to read at lucasmenegatti.blogspot.com
Stay tuned . Thanks for watching.
Menegatti L , working on the big island 8C in font . Getting close .■Progress , part II
Another session geting closer to get it done .■The Island , 8B+
More details at lucasmenegatti.blogspot.com
Boulder ; the big island .
Lucas Ménégatti doing the island , 8b+ in Fontainebleau .
6th ascent of Dave graham FA .
Music : Ketto by bonobo
more to come at lucasmenegatti.blogspot.com
Sportiva athlete Jon Glassberg bouldering in the Ticino region of Switzerland. Jon spent 1 month in Switzerland bouldering on some of the best granite on earth! Special thanks to Sportiva for supporting the trip!
Men’s Final Results
1. Sean McColl
2. Alex Johnson
3. Kyle Owen
5. Austin Geiman
6. Zach Lerner
7. Matty Hong
8. Nic Sherman
Women’s Final Results
1. Alex Puccio
2. Francesca Metcalf
3. Sasha DiGiliuan
4. Alex Johnson
5. Angie Payne
6. Tiffany Hensley
7. Kasia Pietras
■The ABS 12 National Championships: Stop #1 of the 2011 UBC Pro Tour. Boulder, CO.
On February 11 & 12 2011 the best climbers in North America converged on Boulder CO for the beginning of the Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour and the 12th ABS National Championships powered by The North Face.■Behind The Scenes • 2011 ABS National Championship
Big falls and bigger upsets characterized the climbing on the brand new competition walls from Vertical Solutions and after three rounds of competition, the new US National Champions are Alex Puccio (Female) and Alex Johnson (Male) for 2011... But with a last possible second flash of the final problem, it was Canadian Sean McColl who actually pulled out the win!
Full results, photos and video can be found at www.ubcprotour.com, more information at www.usaclimbing.org.
A behind the scenes look into the lives of professional athletes as they prepare for finals during the 2011 ABS Nationals event in Boulder, Colorado. Hear what the climbers are talking about in isolation right before competing in the final round of nationals...■The Competition Wall of the UBC Pro Tour - Vertical Solutions
The 2011 Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour kicks off February 11th & 12th with ABS Nationals and the unveiling of the new cutting edge of competition climbing walls by Vertical Solutions. Take a look at the man and the history behind the curves with John Stack of Vertical Solutions and get psyched to see the 2011 UBC Pro Tour LIVE on Saturday February 12th at www.ubcprotour.com!
Thanks very much to Sender Films for this footage and edit of Learning To Fly, at Indian Creek.
It's a steep, physical crack and it's power-endurance climbing. When I got to the anchor, I wanted to throw up. :)
Lots of yelling on this one.
El primero y uno de los mas famosos Máster internacionales de escalada en a localidad de Arco en Trento, Italia. presentamos extractos del máster de bloque de los hombres con Nalle Hukkataival, Gabriele Moroni, Kilian Fischhuber, David Lama entre otros.
A teaser for Posing Productions' latest film, Psyche II, featuring the award winning 'The Prophet'. Available to buy at:
The follow up to 2007's 'Psyche', 'Psyche II' features an astounding first ascent on El Cap as well as a load more rock action in the UK and South Africa, featuring characters such as Leo Houlding, Neil Gresham, Mary Jenner and Dave Pickford.
Jimmy Webb climbing Daniel Woods' new line Fantasia v14.■Dave Graham Working Fantasia, 8b+
3rd day working Fantasia, 8b+ near the Millenium Boulder, near Morrison, Colorado.
I made this video a while back for a video competition on show interesting jobs in America. Well Rogue is my home gym and I think these people are pretty cool.
On December 26th Enrico Baistrocchi climbed Shadowfax in Chironico, Swiss.
Here is a short about his interesting story about the problem.
Full steam ahead! The 2010 team trip is taking the Mammut athletes Anna Stöhr, Alex Johnson, David Lama, Céderic Lachat, Magnus Midtboe and Jakob Schubert to Sheffield in the north of England. The raw gritstone blocks and puritanical climbing etiquette of the legendary Peak District offer an attractive prospect. Cordless drills have no place in the Peak District, which has a clean climbing ethic.■Mammut Teamtrip Kyrgyzstan
Unsettled terrain, broad steppes, steep rock faces. In late summer 09 the Mammut pro team Nina Caprez, Stephan Siegrist, David Lama and Giovanni Quirici travelled to distant Kyrgyzstan, where they undertook a spectacular 18-pitch big wall first ascent on Asan (4,230 m) in the untouched Karavshin Valley.■Mammut Teamtrip Malaysia
Jungle fever - 91 routes in 9 days! In just over a week, on their Mammut Mission Malaysia, David Lama and Reini Scherer rapidly opened up two completely new areas - including three of the most difficult routes in Asia! They were actively supported in these first ascents by the sultan and the European climbing elite. In Malaysia: Cédric Lachat (CH), Christina Schmid (CH), Anna Stöhr (A), Katharina Saurwein (A) and Juliane Wurm (D).■Mammut Teamtrip Urban Climbing
Mammut gone astray. The Urban Climbing team trip led the athletes Stephan Siegrist, David Lama, Christina Schmid, Anna Stöhr, Barbara Bacher and Magnus Midtbö onto unchartered territory for once -- the city. From Italy to Austria to Switzerland, the climbers followed their unchanging mission of bringing the mountains to the city.
Daniel Woods sends in Zillertal and Maltatal. Nalle Hukkataival sends Power of Goodbye, V13.■Hueco and Joes Valley2010
Footy from Joes Valley this fall, and Hueco Tanks the past 2 weeks. Big Boy, A River Runs Through It, 3 Years Dead and the Bitch still Burned Me, Yellow Diamonds V13FA, A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix, and Escape Velocity.■Hypnotized Minds, 8C
Climbers: Flannery Shay-Nemirow, Daniel Woods, Courtney Sanders
Me doing Bisher Traverse, V8, at Poudre Canyon, finished in a few days, (yes it was a joke)..but overall pretty cool problem if you like traverses... and Daniel does a Varial flip at Longmont skate Park!■Untitled
Courtney SandersはDaniel Woodsの婚約者ですね。
Daniel Woods – $1,500
Vasya Vorotnikov – $750
Brian Kim – $250
Francesca Metcalf – $1,500
Sasha DiGiulian – $750
Tiffany Hensley – $250
■2011 Dark Horse Championship & Behind the Scenes
Highlights of the 2011 Dark Horse Championship and some behind the scenes with Dave Wetmore and Josh Larson! Thanks Metro Rock!■Dark Horse Series Championships 2011
The Dark Horse Bouldering Competition started out as a small community organized event that has taken off and become an East Coast sensation. As the name implies, the competition was designed around the idea that a "Dark Horse competitor" can come from the shadows and win a big competition and make some big cash. That is still a very real possibility but when you have 10 of the best men and women in bouldering at your "local comp" the likelihood that a dark horse will arise as champion is even more unexpected! And that is what makes it so much fun to watch...
a sick battle at metrorock boston feb 5 2011
IMSreview - Alex Puccio from Gory - Polish Climbing Magazine on Vimeo.
Alex Puccio, american star of bouldering is talking about her European trip, trying 8B, plans and fear of flying...
Alex Puccio, amerykańska gwiazda boulderingu opowiada o swoim tripie po Europie, wstawianiu się w 8B, planach na przyszłość i strachu przed lataniem...
interview: Thomas Mazur (Góry Magazine)
photos: Piotr Drożdż (Góry Magazine)
camera & edit: Wojtek Kozakiewicz (vacaspurpuras)
As a part-time Black Diamond ski tech rep and a full-time Black Diamond climbing athlete, Sam Elias may have been a ski racer growing up but now he's a rock and ice hard charger with numerous 5.14 and M12 redpoints and first ascents to his credit. We sent pro lensman Boone Speed out to Colorado to capture a little slice of Sam's life and style, as well as some beastly mixed climbing action.
Featuring:■Magic Wood: Magic Rocks
Duioxmanie, Charcuterie, La Coquille assis, Abdolobotomy, Le Roi Des Voleurs, Beatle Juice.
October, 2010■10 Days to Denver: Part One Joe's Valley
Featuring: Blindfisch, Lindser Boulder, Bosna Genial, Hohen Rausch, Valentine's Day, Red Roses, Dinos Don't Dino's, Hohen Zone, Freiwild, Intermezzo, Blown Away.
Featuring: Planet of the Apes, Chips, The Wind Below, Team Effort, Team Effort Sit and Pocket Rocket.■10 Days to Denver: Part Two Colorado
Part 2: Colorado...Coming Soon!
Featuring: Unshackled and Vaporizer, The Idiot, Geeks of the Idustry, Tommy's Arete and Mikala!■Rocklands South Africa: Rancans Unite
"Knockin on Heavens Door" (V11/12) is one of the purest and uncompromising highballs I have ever done.■Anam Cara | Silvretta by Korni Obleitner
And yes, I sure dumped a lump in my pants but I'm happy I could get the first ascent of this amazing line. :))
For more Infos check: http://www.moonclimbing.com/Tobias-Haller-climbs-Austrian-high-ball-project-n-955.html
This problem is one of the hardest testpieces in Austria sent by Korni Obleitner in summer 2009.■Drischiebl | Zillertal - payback!
Amazing conditions on December 23rd granted me yet another chance to finish this problem.■Drischiebl | Zillertal - the non-ascent
Keep it purple!!
For more Infos check out http://www.moonclimbing.com/The-Positive-Aspects-of-Climate-Change-in-Zillertal-by-Tobias-Haller-n-949.html
Falling off boulders just before the last hold - that's what I'm pretty good at ... Well, guess I gotta get back on this one ... Damn!■Evilution direct
Thx to Chris Webb for the cheerleading!!
For more Infos check out http://www.moonclimbing.com/The-Positive-Aspects-of-Climate-Change-in-Zillertal-by-Tobias-Haller-n-949.html
first ground-up ascent of evilution direct / bishop / CA
sickest highball ever ...
For more Infos check out http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Evilution%20Dreaming%20...%20(Zlu%20in%20Bishop)-n-882.html
■Tickmarks and Picnics
Our 9 days in Font. Good times.■Åland May 2010 - Part 1
Coeur de Pirate - Commes des Enfants http://www.myspace.com/coeurdepirate
Bonobo - Pick up http://www.myspace.com/sibonobo
The White Stripes - Denial Twist http://www.myspace.com/thewhitestripes
Jose Gonzales - Heartbeats http://www.myspace.com/josegonzalez
Bouldering in Åland. Part 1.■Åland May 2010 - Part 2
Part 2 of our bouldering trip to Åland. Sort of ran out of decent footage and ideas. Contains the FA of luonnonvalinta, Andy's crazy new beta for Normipäivä and a load of random stuff. enjoy.
Music: Phoenix - Lisztomania
■making of Boulder World Cup reports 2010 - part 1, the cameras
Udo Neumann explains how the Boulder World Cup reports were made. This first part deals with the 3 different cameras that were used, the Nikon D5000, 2 GoPro HDs and 2 Kodak Zx1...
Première ascension de Hyôga, 8A+, par Pierre Bollinger, au Nouveau Gueberschwihr.
Un autre highball, situé sur le même bloc que Peter Pan... (www.vimeo.com/escaladealsace/peterpan)
Plus d'infos : http://www.escalade-alsace.com/articles/Hyoga8A+.php
Grimpeurs : Pierre Bollinger & Franck Andolfatto
Images : Freddy & Yann Corby
Montage : Freddy
Musiques : Morcheeba - Cut to the Case & Cyesm - The Worst is Inside
Corsica is: wonderful, beautiful, dazzling, wild, interesting, challenging, diverse, fun, romantic, tasty, dizzy (due to twisty roads and/or Corsican beers), wicked, mysterious, fragrant etc. etc.■Via Chironico
This is the video of our own Corsica. Better than the best.
But you know ... you be the judge :)
Music: Quantic - Not So Blue
Older climbing movie in Chironico Swiss..■Dovžanova soteska
Nov spot na Gorenjskem blizu tržiča. Par sto metrov pred plezališčem "dovžanka".