Mens Finals SCS National Championships with Carlo Traversi, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Gabor Szekley, and Magnus Midtboe battle for the National Title.
■Womens Finals SCS National Sport Climbing Championship
Womens Finals SCS National Sport Climbing Championships with Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, Paige Claassen, Lauren Lee, Emily Harrington, Chelsea Rude, Sasha Dejulian, and Cicada Jenerik.
Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and Brion Voges in Boone, NC at Lost Cove.
Nate Draughn climbs On Any Sunday(V10).
Brion Voges climbs On Any Sunday sit (V11).
Rami Annab climbs Two Pop(V9).
Third part of new documentary film called "Rock climbers" from hany.info production. Multi-pitch climbing in Switzerland mountains, walking in the mountains.
Black Diamond athlete Matt Segal is currently down in Argentine Patagonia, waiting out day after day of jingus weather, in the hopes of scoring one good window in which to make an ascent in the Cerro Torre or Fitzroy massifs.
Here is an email Segal sent us from El Chalten, as well as a video of his last-minute preparations to get packed and out the door to catch his flight down to South America. ______________________________________________
From: Matt Segal Subject: Re: in El Chalten Date: January 20, 2010 7:15:52 AM MST
About a month ago my friend Jason Kruk asked if I wanted to head south to Patagonia for a few weeks to join him and Jon Gleason since their third partner had bailed. Two days later I had my ticket… Why not? It would be my first real trip to the mountains (besides a few short missions in North America) but it seemed like a perfect opportunity, Jason is an aspiring mountain guide and Jon used to be on Yosemite Search and Rescue. I’d be the gumby of the team… Sweet!
We arrived in El Chalten about a week ago and the weather has been absolutely horrible in the mountains. We hiked a bunch of food and gear up to the glacier so we’d be ready when the weather splits but unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be getting any better. Luckily there is decent bouldering, sport climbing and “mucho cervezas” to keep us sane in town.
Here is a short video on packing for a big trip that my friend John Dickey helped me film… Stay tuned for more updates.
Black Diamond athlete and regional tech rep Sam Elias finished second in the 2010 Ouray Ice Festival. This video shows Elias barely finishing the route under the 20-minute time limit. Congratulations, Sam!
Arc'teryx Athlete Will Gadd climbs vertical ice for 24 hours at the Ouray Ice Festival to raise money and awareness for the dZi Foundation. Get a behind the scenes look at his physical preparation and the grueling 24 hour event.
Black Diamond athlete Chris Schulte recently returned from Hueco Tanks, Texas where he battled to pull off a host of quality repeats and even a first ascent or two. Here is Chris’s video he made that highlights the action, from V2 mega-classics to V12 power-fests.
To read Chris's trip report, go to blackdiamondequipment.com and search "CHRIS SCHULTE".
Video I did for DEAD POINT MAGAZINE of Daniel Woods Crushing the infamous Chinese Arithmetic V13/14 and Testify V12 at the lilly boulders Tennessee. Check out www.deadpointmag.com for more climbing videos
A short Documentary created about Bouldering around Athens, Ohio. This is just the beginning of what will be an on going experiment. Let me know what you think.
■2nd, Bernd Zangerl, 2001
Dreamtime, 8c - second ascent by Bernd Zangerl, 2001
Dreamtime by Fred Nicole was the world's first 8c boulder problem in 2000. Bernd Zangerl climbed the second ascent in 2001. A couple of years later a controversy about if or if not Dreamtime got chipped started. Maybe this clip can shed some light into that question!
■小山田大
Koyamada Dai Climbs Dreamtime V15
Koyamada Dai climbing Fred Nicole's benchmark V15 boulder problem in Cresciano, Switzerland. It only took him 2 days, beating Chris Sharma's previous 6 day record. Dreamtime has since been downgrad...
■Chris Sharma
Escalada / climb - Dream time ''v15'' Chris Sharma
Chris Sharma mandando Dream time...
V15
■Dave Graham
Dave Graham Bouldering Dreamtime
Dave sending "dreamtime" V15
■Christian Core, 2003
Christian Core, Dreamtime, Cresciano
Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson has spent the late fall of 2010 bouldering on the granite blocks of Switzerland, managing to nab a series of impressive ascents including two 8Cs (Big Paw and Ill Trill), as well as two well-known 8B+'s: the famed Dreamtime and the second ascent of fellow BD athlete Nalle Hukkataival's Ninja Skills. Below is a video Robinson edited together of these two 8B+ problems, as well as others at the higher end of the grading scale. Nice work, Paul!
■Christian Core
Christian Core boulder Dream time 8c Cresciano
Climber Christian Core
Blocco: Dream time 8c
■Adam Ondra
Dreamtime
■Dream Time 8A(+)
Bouldering of 4 power men in SWISS. Cresciano and Chironico. Their dream comes true.
Here is the first of 10 webisodes of the "Daily Grind" serie. They will feature some of our climbing and skiing days with friends presenting some of the unknown and most esthetical destinations in the Alps for mountain sports addicts.
Thanks to the Mountainshop.com for making this informative videos possible.
Teemu and Tomi building the wave (Aalto) profile. There is not much left before the profile is finished. So this is the last timelapse of wave-series =)
After cutting the sheets, the sheets must be combined into slices (like in orange). After that the slices are combined into a (almost real) Death Star.
Me (Jarmo) and Tomi building a 17m long overhanging boulder tube. The tube will rise to 8m and the floor will follow 2 meters below the roof so that the falls won't be a factor when cranking the endurance to the next level :)
ウド・ノイマンはカルト的なクライミング教本であるPerformance Rock Climbingの著者で、ドイツでもクライミング界の顔的な存在みたいですが、その彼の約10年前のメキシコ、アメリカ旅行の様子。課題は有名なMidnight Lightningなど。
■Mexico-USA trip 1999-2000
Ten years ago Kirsten Buchmann, Klem Loskot, Werner "Gamsi" Gamsjäger and Udo Neumann embarked on a 2 month bouldering and surfing trip to the western US and Mexico's Baja California. It was Klem's and Udo's first trip "only" for their book "Der XI. Grad". Mind you, for the millenium change many people were concerned how all these machines and computers would deal with the '00 year and some expected civilization to end right at the millenium change ;-) Another side note: we are better surfers nowadays!
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At the First Annual Yangshuo Climbing Festival in Yanghshuo, China, James Pearson and Cedar Wright gave a demonstration on proper sport climbing technique. This is a quick clip from that clinic.
Nella giornata di domenica 3 gennaio 2010, a Cornalba, con una temperatura di -3 °C, Adam Ondra ha realizzato le prime salite onsight di Peter Pan (8a+) e Jedi (8b). www.gruppocamosci.com
As the weather heats up, I present the 10 most climbed boulders in in the forest, they are all ideal for the heat, plus I have added a few extra nice ones
What can I say, the weather this month has been totally rubbish, snow for the first week, followed by a couple of weeks of rain, followed by more snow, we only managed to get a handfull of days climbing so not much footage this month.
The best bit of the month was today, the sun finally came out and I had a great day witha great bunch of friends.
I have been making my monthly videos for 18 months now, and thanks guys for all the comments, they have been great, but for now I will stop making them, I need to spent some time working on my own climbing..
Over the last few months I have found myself trying to find nice problems just for the monthly dose and not really putting any time into the harder routes I want to climb.
So for now I am going to concentrate on getting some big ticks....
Watch out for some special videos coming soon (I hope)
Autum is almost over the winter is fast approaching, some nice boulders for you all to enjoy, some classic, some not so classic but def worth looking out for.......
Ok, so people know I like to dyno, I have a little thing going of trying to do all the dynos if font, there are currently about 110 official dynos above 7a
Here you have part one of the video with 40 quality dynos to try.
It’s 5:45 a.m. and Renan and I are up and throwing the last of the goods into barrels and duffels. What stays? What goes? Where are my shoes?
Our days in Kathmandu have been good…a productive and creative time to sink back into Nepali culture before getting on a plane to fly into the mountains. There is no doubt it is time to get out of the city and up into the hills. The flight to Lukla is a time-warp…you get on the plane surrounded by the amenities of modern life and 45 minutes later, after landing on a super sketchy runway that angles steeply uphill, find yourself surrounded only by trails, monasteries and deep gorges. No more car horns and pollution…it’s sick!
The motivation and creativity are running thick and Renan and I are busting at the seams to capture our trip and bring everyone back home along…it’s good to be here, but the extended tribe is never far from our thoughts.
The good news is the plane didn't crash...and there is no bad news.
The lights that dot the hillside outside our window go out one by one...it’s late in Namche. Our floor is less carpet space than duffels overflowing with camera and climbing gear.
Namche is the hub of almost all activity in the high Khumbu and yet now in the off season, it’s hard to find a shop open before noon. We’ve been here for two days, breathing the thinner air, adjusting to the cooler days and hanging out with the Tibetan traders below the village. Thamserku, Kwangde, and Kusum Kanguru tower above us in an impressive trifecta of ice and stone...conditions look good and we are stoked.
Tomorrow we’ll leave before the sun hits the village and wander up the Thame valley towards Tibet. Our friend Chhewang Nima will come along fort he ride.. You’ve never heard of him...but you should have considering he’s climbed Everest 17 times (yeah, you read that right)! His is just another example of Sherpa modesty and stoicism.
The next four days will take us over the Renjo La at roughly 17,400 ft., down to Gokyo, and finally to Phortse where we will stage for our attempt on Tawoche. Three friends, two cameras, one trail....epic.
Turn up the RADIO! Coming at you live from 17,000 ft. below the South Central (Gangsta) Buttress of Tawoche…
Renan and I are stuffed in a tent suffering from pounding altitude headaches. This after our 4,300 ft elevation jump yesterday on our final approach to BC comes as little surprise. We have never actually been accused of being the sharpest bowling balls on the shelf…so go figure.
Tawoche in all her glory rises above us another 5,000ft. With the view, comes the all to familiar rollercoaster of emotions that precede any alpine endeavor. Balancing fear and intuition, angst and energy, the action vs. the idea….they all flow into your already pounding cranial vault, leaving you exhausted before you’ve left the ground.
Since our last dispatch, we are one man, one camera, and one crucial lens down. Chhewang accompanied us to BC, but has since descended to Pangboche to wait. One 5D was tragically lost to a windstorm last night, as well the lens attached. Left with merely pieces, I am more than just a little bummed that the culprit time-lapse didn’t even make the cut for the dispatch.
Thanks for hanging with us…while we have no real comms up here, it means a lot to us to know someone might be listening.
c & r
Waking at 3:30 a.m. is the least of my concerns. We haven’t really been sleeping anyway. Our minds are filled with “What Ifs?” and scenarios that leave us wondering if we are struggling against basic fear, or fighting intuition.
Alpine climbing is a labor of love…it’s type 10 fun…the kind of fun that doesn’t have to be fun to be fun. In fact, most of the time spent in the actual activity is consumed by the minds’ pursuit of the base desire that has thrust you into the situation to begin with. In short, it is not something that makes a tremendous amount of sense.
Following your instincts isn’t really an option because your instincts tell you not to leave the ground. But conversely, not leaving the ground isn’t a viable option either…because fighting your desire to climb leaves you more miserable than the climbing itself.
We think about friends we’ve lost in the mountains and wonder if they were feeling the same thing the last morning they crawled from their respective tents. There is a massive question mark that hangs gloomily above the whole situation, and this morning is no different.
I light the incense and tuck it into the makeshift Stupa. Over my shoulders, pre-dawn light outlines the horizon…the dark figures of Makalu, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam. The last of the gear is shoved into the packs in silence as our labored breath rises into the light of our headlamps. The only thing left to do is start climbing. Greater fears are boiled down to specific distractions: Will there be water? Will the weather hold? Can we climb fast enough? And before we know it, the sun warms our backs and we are high above the valley floor on new terrain. The fear melts and melds with joy to create a hybrid emotion that feels almost tangible.
Like my friend Colin Moorehead says, “Climbing is the truth.”
“This is our decision to live fast and die young. We've got the vision, now let's have some fun. Yeah it's overwhelming, but what else can we do? Get jobs in offices and wake up for the morning commute?”
MGMT
As we told our sponsors before the climb, we’ve gone rogue like Sarah Palin. We are off the grid…
As we wake up battered and depleted, everything points us towards bailing. Only we are too hard headed to concede defeat, not realizing in fact that we are just too stupid to know when to call it. We haven’t had water in a day or so…but who needs hydration anyway? Talking with this degree of cottonmouth makes me sound like I am speaking in tongues…Renan looks at me with confused, puffy eyes. Are we really going up? I am as confused as him…the answer is a surprisingly emphatic ‘yes!’
I dodge rocks as Renan leads through some choss. He short fixes, I jug, dry heave, swing leads, dry heave more, and suck down hard candies like an addict locked in the throes of withdrawals. I can’t wait for the snow, for the water, but we still have hours to go before we get there…if we get there. But the unspoken common ground is that we are down to go up…
As are artists, we are locked in a constant struggle between what we want to capture, and the energy our bodies can afford to give. It’s an instinct to reach for the camera, but one that nearly always falls second to the tasks at hand. Often times, I criticize myself for not shooting more…for not nailing the perfect image…but then again, I am fighting just to move. As athletes, we are succeeding, but as creative individuals, we are flailing…it hurts.
There are multiple points in any given day, during any given hour, or on any given pitch, where I want more than anything to call it in. I want to yell up at Renan that I’ve had it. I can’t swallow, can’t talk…can barely breath, and all of it makes me want to descend. I know he feels the same because I can see it in his face. But our mouths stay shut, moving upwards steadily as a cohesive unit. No, it doesn’t make any sense…but we’ve never pretended to understand. Life is reduced to a consecutive series of familiar motions. Our arms begin to cramp due to lack of fluid. The glands in our mouths stop producing saliva. We are dried up…
All the variables in the equation equal out towards descent. But math was never my strong point…apparently Renan suffers from the same learning disabilities.
Paul Robinson started climbing at the age of 10. In the last decade, he has bouldered V15, and sent literally hundreds of problems in the V14 to V11 range. Not surprisingly, he has won or placed in nearly all of the international bouldering competitions he has entered. Paul is also an accomplished artist and painter majoring in Fine Arts at the University of Colorado, Boulder. He writes a lively blog about his accomplishments, art and his global travels promoting the climbing lifestyle.
"Everything really important is in front of us. Even in us!
Sometimes we have to go where the world ends just to understand it... "
P.P.
***
This short "inspiration-movie" was edited from the footage, which was filmed randomly during the long trip of Petr and Eva to the northernmost parts of Europe. No script, no story etc... Just the strong northern inspiration, given me by the Northern lights :-)
Cast: EVA SIROTKOVÁ, SAPMI
Music: MARI BOINE, JIŘÍ HÁJEK, AJLOŠ
Filmed, edited and directed by PETR PAVLÍČEK
PHOTOS FROM THIS TRIP HERE: http://www.bernartwood.cz/en/text/volani-severu