New River Gorge : The Curse

ウェスト・バージニアのニューリバーゴージ。魅力的な課題ばかり。映像もかなりのクオリティです。

http://www.louderthan11.com/?p=925

■New River Gorge Curse

New River Gorge Curse from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

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Louder Than 11 traveled to the New River Gorge in West Virginia in December of 2009 to explore the potential that the area had to offer. The mission: Develop exciting and hard boulder problems along the New River in the Blue Hole Sector of the Gorge. Follow Nate Draughn, Jon Glassberg, and Carlo Traversi as they wage war with the CURSE of high water, injury, and devastating snow storms.

I love making videos. The more I learn and get into every aspect of it (save for the business/money side of things) the more I love it. I also love creative challenges–projects that push me to learn new skills and try new things and come out with something that expands the LT11 cannon. I often have delusions of grandeur during the initial planning stages of a project because I’ve found its better to go big and come away with something smaller in scope than to dive into a project with shallow depth. (I even have a scar to prove you shouldn’t be diving head first into shallow depths) This particular project was supposed to be something entirely different when we first came up with the idea. Its an idea that we still plan to produce but probably won’t see the light of release until the end of this year. I was very excited about producing the original idea this go round and it was very hard for me to let that go and concede to the fact that all kinds of unavoidable obstacles where in the way and there wasn’t really a way around them this time. All these projects are in part personal expressions of our creativity. We get really attached to the creative vision and its stressful–even emotionally painful–when your passion gets deferred. It all starts when you start re-writing ideas to appease sponsors. It snowballs when bad weather and record breaking snow storms make climbing/shooting video an impossibility. It peaks and ends when your contingency plan falls through because athlete schedules and sponsor budgets don’t line up for the correct dates. What you end up with is a lump sum of time, money and video footage invested in a project that never came to fruition. So now your presented with a new creative challenge: How do you pull a story out of this?

This is what we came away with:

First in, First Out (V7) – Jon Glassberg FA
Denim (V6) – Nate Draughn FA
Bustin’ Down The Door (V8/9) – Carlo Traversi FA
Royal Blue (V8) – Nate Draughn FA
Bed Of Nails (V8) – Jon Glassberg FA
Wet Your Whistle (V7) – Carlo Traversi & Nate Draughn FA
The Payoff (V10) – Jon Glassberg FA

Extras Include:

Transvestite Slab (V7)
Lime Light (V9)
The Squeal Project (V10)

CREDITS:

Produced, Written, Directed, and Edited by
Jon Glassberg
Jordan Shipman

Video
Nate Draughn
Jon Glassberg
Jordan Shipman
Carlo Traversi

Climbers
Nate Draughn
Jon Glassberg
Carlo Traversi

Special Effects
Jordan Shipman

Music
“Stronger Man” by Mr. J. Medeiros
“Specters Ghost” by Romeo Spike
“Intent” by His Boy Elroy
“Inertia” by His Boy Elroy
“Walk With Me” by MG! The Visionary
“Keep Connected” by Adamatic
“August Dub” by Pretty Lights
All songs licensed via Rumblefish.com

Special Thanks to our Sponsors
Dead Point Magazine
Five Ten
Friksn Clothing
Revolution Climbing

Very Special Thanks to Those That Supported the Project
Jay and Wendy Young
Matt and Megan Stark
Nic Sruil and Michelle Eckert
Jonny Landry
Clark Shelk
Nancy Prichard
Tim O’ Brien

Jon Glassberg

Louder Than 11 traveled to the New River Gorge in West Virginia in December of 2009 to explore the potential that the area had to offer. The mission: Develop exciting and hard boulder problems along the New River in the Blue Hole Sector of the Gorge. Follow Nate Draughn, Jon Glassberg, and Carlo Traversi as they wage war with the CURSE of high water, injury, and devastating snow storms.

All I can really say about the project is: It’s finally OVER! Jordan Shipman and I spent WAY to much time planning, shooting, climbing, and just plain old busting our asses for this short video about the New River Gorge bouldering. We planned for this video to be feature length, epic, and just plain awesome but we ran into some serious trouble along the way. This video is about the CURSE that we were faced with on our trip and despite our best efforts, nothing really went as planned. Regardless, Carlo, Nate and I were able to put up some really great first ascents and certainly wont forget the experience. EVER.

[Problem] Treasures of the Deep (V7)

Louder Than 11

■Treasures of the Deep V7

Treasures of the Deep V7 from Louder Than 11 - Jordan Shipman on Vimeo.

The Upper Playground

The Upper Playground from erik danielson on Vimeo.

We made the steep trek to upper Lost Cove in late February of 2010. The blocs were dry and we were able to climb outside in town for the first time in almost two months. We drove down 221 first but it was cold and snowy... upper Lost Cove it was. The boulders are way up at the top and you get a sweet view of big Lost Cove from the spot. 1st up Nathan brushed up this rad hueco line... it ended up cleaning up real nice.

Next, up the hill to Downward Dog V10 a line first climbed by Pat Goodman. Pat is an accomplished international climber... and he's been doing his thing for a long time. He's put a lot of work when it comes to first ascents and this is just one of countless lines he's helped establish. A little brushing later and Nate hooked it up... donde!

By this point fog rolled in and its windy. We walk up the hill and there is still a foot of snow on the ground. Well... the problem was dry, sorta. Apocalypse Prow V7 is legit! Nathan took a swim and donde! It's a wrap! Upper playground!

2010年2月終わりに急な斜面を登ってLost Coveの上の方へ行ってみた。岩は乾いていて、ここ2ヶ月の間で初めて外で登ることができた。最初、221を車で下ったが、寒くて雪が降っていた。それがLost Coveだった。岩は山頂のにあって、そこからLost Coveを見渡す眺めが素晴らしい。Nathanがラインを掃除したらとてもよくなった。
次にさらに上のDownward Dog(V10)を登った。Pat Goodmanによって最初に登られたラインだ。Patは熟達した国際的なクライマーだ。彼は新しいラインを初登するのに熱心で、このラインは彼が完成に協力した数え切れないラインの一つに過ぎない。少し掃除して、Nateが登った。
この時点で霧があたりを覆って風が強くなってきた。丘を登ると、地面が雪で覆われていたが、その課題は乾いていた。Apocalypse Prow (V7)は正統派の課題だ。Nathanはすぐに登った。高級な遊び。

Rumbling Bald, North Carolina

Rumbling Bald, North Carolina - Tour of Classics from erik danielson on Vimeo.

Dalton and Nate are syked to bring you the Rumbling Bald, North Carolina Tour of Classics. Filmed in February of 2010 this short was produced as a portfolio piece.

Jimmy Webb and Nate Draughn

Nate Draughnのアップした映像をまとめて。
V10くらいの課題が多いですが、日本の段級グレードで言うと三段くらいなので相当なものです。

■Chain Slang and Hustle & Flow(v10)

Chain Slang and Hustle & Flow(v10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Jimmy Webb doing FA of Chain Slang(v10).
Nate Draughn doing Hustle and Flow(v10).

■Patio Roof(V9) and Kamikaze(V10)

Patio Roof(V9) and Kamikaze(V10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Josh Shephard doing Patio Roof.
Me doing Kamikaze.
AT Rumbling Bald.

■Back at School

Back at School from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

My friend Josh and I climbing near the border of NC&TN.

-Broad side of the barn Door(V9) 4th ascent.
-Kobe Bryant(V9)

■A Day At The Bald

A Day At The Bald from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Me doing...
The second ascent of Fresh Water V10.
The second ascent of Salt Water V9.
Albatros V9.
& the FA of Optimus Prime SDS V9.

■Some Southern Shizzz.

Some Southern Shizzz. from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Rami Annab doing Big Poppa(V8).
Jimmy Webb doing the FA of Innovation(V9).
Nate Draughn doing Squeezebox(V8).

■Iron Claw Sit(V10) and Blackout(V10)

Iron Claw Sit(V10) and Blackout(V10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn doing Iron Claw Sit and Blackout at Rocktown in La Fayette, GA.

■Back in Boone

Back in Boone from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and Brion Voges in Boone, NC at Lost Cove.
Nate Draughn climbs On Any Sunday(V10).
Brion Voges climbs On Any Sunday sit (V11).
Rami Annab climbs Two Pop(V9).

■Clear Creek Canyon

Clear Creek Canyon from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn climbing Muddy Waters(V11) and The Dark Waters Traverse(V10) at clear creek canyon.

■Some More Joe's Valley

Some More Joe's Valley from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn climbing Moment of Truth(V10) and Gurkhaknife(V9) at Joe's Valley. Also John Gass climbing Bring the Heat(V8) and Tom doing Maxipad(V6).

A day of climbing with Nate Draughn

またハイクオリティなクライミング映像の作り手を発見。すばらしいAtomosphereっす。最近動画のアップを始めたみたいです。

■Bouldering with Nate

Bouldering with Nate from dalton hilfinger on Vimeo.

Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics

■Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics

Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics from Louder Than 11 - Jordan Shipman on Vimeo.

The legend Rodney Biddle shares a few classic boulder problems at Moore's Wall with Nate Draughn and Rami Annab. A quick bit about the area, a little history and Biddle's FAs.