Published on Feb 9, 2013 Sean McColl showing some campus board training exercises. Lats - 22cm (8.66) inches apart - 1cm width - rounded edges http://seanmccoll.com for more info on Sean. Timing: Run a continuous stopwatch and start a new exercise every 2 minutes. It should take roughly 30 seconds to complete an exercise which gives you 90 seconds rest. With exercises that are mirrored, I still take a 90 second rest in between to maximize my output. A typical campus board workout for me looks like the following: Up by 1's - rest Up by 1's - rest Up by 2's - rest Up by 2's - rest Big dynamic moves - rest Big dynamic moves - rest Bumping left hand - rest Bumping right hand - rest Bumping left hand - rest Bumping right hand - rest Double up by 1's - rest Double up by 2's - rest Offset double up by 1's (left hand high) - rest Offset double up by 1's (right hand high) - rest Offset by 2, alternating hands (last exercise) - finished REST 20 MINUTES Repeat.
Chris Sharma: Yoga Warm Up For Climbing from Prana Living on Vimeo.
Chris Sharma shares his insights and some simple yoga poses to help warm up the body and tune in the mind before climbing.
Learn more about Chris visit http://www.prana.com/life/ambassadors/
Paul & Heather Robinson: Sinless City from Prana Living on Vimeo.
Climber's Paul Robinson and Heather Robinson (no relation) enjoy the beauty and diversity of the landscape just outside of Las Vegas. From the sandstone boulders of the Red Rock area to the alpine setting and limestone cliffs of Mount Charleston, there's something for everyone. Good to note; if you don't venture towards the bright lights of Vegas, you may even stay out of trouble.
CRUEL SUMMER from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.
California boulderers doing their thing in the heat of summer 2012......
Featured Climbers: Simon Benkert, Natasha Barnes, Max Zolotukhin, Vitaly Volberg, Mark Heal
Featured Areas: Mickey's Beach CA, Leavenworth WA, Black Mountain CA, South Lake Tahoe CA, Gold Bar WA
Featured Climbs: Surf Safari 5.13d, Sleeping Lady V2, WAS V8, Buzz Saw V10, Ground Control V11, Love Handles V11, Pimp Juice V9, Unknown V8, Rubik's Cube V7, Twisted V10
Sasha talks the future, climbing, and zombies from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.
We had the opportunity to sit down and chat with Sasha this fall to discuss her approach to climbing.
http://www.lifestrength.com/rockandice: For more information on LifeStrength
Climb Like Chris Sharma: Balancing Perspectives from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.
Chris Sharma shares his strategy and techniques that have made him one of the best climbers in the world.
Part 1: vimeo.com/42221188
Part 2: vimeo.com/47333482
Part 3: vimeo.com/49027417
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk climbs Mecca from Outcrop Films on Vimeo.
Mina Leslie Wujastyk on the first female ascent of Mecca at Ravens Tor, UK. This ascent was the second British female ascent of an 8b+ (Lucy Creamer being the first) and the first in the UK.
Mina's blog here: http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/
Other films and products available at www.outcropfilms.com
no strings attached from memakefilm on Vimeo.
Matthew Bush climbing the hardest free solo routes in South Africa
Sponsored by Evolv and BlueWater Ropes.
+27 83 644 1404
info@verticaladventures.co.za
Camera (GoPro)
Olaf de Wet
Max Martini
Sound
Karl Haupt/Flatline Studios
Music
Moby "Walk with Me"/"Stabbings"/"Flying Foxes"
Other videos:
matthew bush - bouldering - llandudno
vimeo.com/36010580
matthew bush - solo climbing - montagu, south africa
vimeo.com/39834318
The secrets of forbidden paradises. from DMT producciones on Vimeo.
Hoyamoros, La dehesa, Candelario, Salamanca, blocando con Cádiz y acompañados por Cuco, local de la zona y responsable de la apertura de la mayoría de los bloques de alrededor, y con el apoyo de Manu y algún que otro coleguilla mas que se portaron de lujo! Hoyamoros es uno de los parajes mas reconocidos del momento dentro del bloque nacional, entorno idílico y condiciones óptimas en verano para la práctica de nuestro exigente deporte, el boulder! Tan solo 4 días que se hicieron como 2, pero disfrutados como 10! espero que la próxima dure mas y alcanzemos los objetivos deseados! Conciencia, empeño y dedicación es lo que diferencia a las personas mas involucradas con el deporte, y con el, sin duda, modo de vida que es la escalada! que sigan apareciendo sectores, y que siga habiendo titanes motivados para abrirlos!
Dave Graham vs. White Noise 8C from Bearcam Media on Vimeo.
DG Battles in the Basin! 3rd ascent of Daniel's enduro testpiece. For more check out www.island.io
Video #1:中嶋 徹Toru Nakajima in Colorado from Imashi Hashimoto on Vimeo.
A 19-years-old-boy Toru Nakajima went to Colorado to bouldering in his summer vacation by himself. He got many achivement in this trip including one V14 and four V13. I show you his energetic climbing in 3 parts of video.
Video #1 you can see his outstanding climbing of The Clan of Cave Bears V13 although he got mountain sickness and other hard problems.
Also take note his talk of problems and impression of the trip.
I'm sure his climbing makes your climbing motivation higher.
Enjoy! Thanks.
See also Video #2:https://vimeo.com/51588249
Problems
The Clan of Cave Bears V13 Lincoln Lake
Unshackled low start V11 Lincoln Lake
Public Execution V10 Mt.Evans
Music
EliotLipp
Track
The Time Is Right
Tonight
Video #2:中嶋 徹Toru Nakajima in Colorado from Imashi Hashimoto on Vimeo.
Video #2 you can see the famous hard problems Lincoln Lake including The Mote in God's Eye V13 and Death Trout V13.The Mote in God's Eye it's a impressive problem on REACH famous climbing film.Toru is talking about this problem,impression of climbers in America and why he went to Colorado.
Enjoy! Thanks.
See also Video #1:https://vimeo.com/51585048
Coming soon Video #3
Problems
RPG V9 FL FA Wild Basin
Purple is not a Color V10 Lincoln Lake
Bebe Wolverine V12 Lincoln Lake
The Mote in God's Eye V13 Lincoln Lake
The Death Trout V13 Lincoln Lake
Music
EliotLipp
Break Science
Track
The Chase
Move Ya Body
Dark Horse 2013 Series 4 Round 1 Highlights from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.
Metro Rock presents the 4th season of the Dark Horse Bouldering Series. This year, with a 4th competition added to the series, Boston is in for non-stop competition action from October to January. Championship round takes place on January 19th so head over to www.darkhorseseries.com to register now!
ABYSS - North America's Highest Bouldering from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.
ABYSS, the latest viral film from Louder Than Eleven, provides an insider’s look at rock climbing development. Exploration of secret, alpine climbing terrain high above Colorado’s Front Range has created a flurry of debate regarding the philosophy, secrecy and ethics of development. Culminating in Ben Spannuth’s FA of one of the world’s highest elevation 5.14s, ABYSS opens the floodgates of passionate debate within the climbing community.
The scandal unfolds in this 48-minute piece, featuring such climbing talents as Paige Claassen, Matty Hong, Chris Schulte, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Dave Wetmore and Matt Wilder and narrated by Jon Glassberg. Additional commentary from the insightful minds of Peter Beal, Herman Feissner, Joe Kinder, Brady Robinson, Ben Scott, Chris Sharma, John Sherman, and Clark Shelk.
Louder Than Eleven is a Boulder based production company specializing in outdoor media to promote the sport of rock climbing by creating captivating action entertainment.
www.lt11.com
www.abyss.lt11.com
www.facebook.com/louderthan11
www.twitter.com/louderthan11
Music
Immune System - “Gehenna” - www.myspace.com/immunesystem/music
Milyoo – “Classic” – Lexington, KY – soundcloud.com/milyoo
Immune System – “The Orme”
Abel Okugawa - “Milk” www.abelokugawa.com
Milyoo – “Phoenix”
Chaptabois - “Walk” - Facebook.com/Chaptabois
Milyoo – “Multitude”
Milyoo – “Pully”
Yosemite Music - “102” - soundcloud.com/yosemite-music
Immune System – “Initiation”
Milyoo – “Classic Refix”
Milyoo – “Takedown”
Louis W T Buick (Lucky Cub) – “92” - soundcloud.com/lucky-cub
Milyoo – “You are You”
Louis W T Buick (Lucky Cub) – “EXX”
Yosemite Music – “Water”
Neon Highwire - “Isometric View (Novelty Music Scene Mix)” - http://www.neonhighwire.com/
The Slow Waves – “Underbelly” - www.facebook.com/theslowwaves - www.theslowwaves.com
ABYSS - North America's Highest Bouldering - OUTTAKES from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.
Outtakes, bloopers, and deleted scenes from ABYSS - North America's Highest Bouldering.
Download ABYSS for free at http://lt11.com/downloads2/
http://abyss.lt11.com/
http://lt11.com/
Premier opus sur le coté obscur ... L'inside life . Aucune prétention autre qu'une vraie "momotivation" pour les amoureux du mal aux bras et de la résistance !
SUISSE DAY/ une après midi dans le valais ou Romain desgranges a répété "Touch by the devil" V13/8B a vernayaz et a fait la first ascent de "La rose d'eliott" V13/8B a branson
Arco Rock Legends - Salewa Rock Award 2012 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.
La presentazione dei nominati al Salewa Rock Award 2012 nella serata di Arco Rock Legends del 31/08/2012 al Casinò di Arco. Protagonisti Sasha DiGiulian (vincitrice del Salewa Rock Award), Iker Pou, Adam Ondra, Dave Graham e Daniel Woods.
Concept Editing: Vinicio Stefanello (PlanetMountain - Mountain Network srl) / Francesco Mansutti (Studio Due)
Produzione: ASD Arrampicata Sportiva Arco
Arco Rock Legends - La Sportiva Competition Award 2012 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.
La presentazione dei nominati al La Sportiva Competition Award 2012 nella serata di Arco Rock Legends del 31/08/2012 al Casinò di Arco. Protagonisti Anna Stöhr (vincitrice del La Sportiva Competition Award), Kilian Fischhuber, Jacob Schubert.
Concept Editing: Vinicio Stefanello (PlanetMountain - Mountain Network srl) / Francesco Mansutti (Studio Due)
Produzione: ASD Arrampicata Sportiva Arco
Stefan Glowacz - Arco Rock Legends Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil 2012 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.
La presentazione di Stefan Glowac a cui è stato assegnato il Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil 2012 nella serata di Arco Rock Legends del 31/08/2012 al Casinò di Arco.
Concept Editing: Vinicio Stefanello (PlanetMountain - Mountain Network srl) / Francesco Mansutti (Studio Due)
Produzione: ASD Arrampicata Sportiva Arco
Echoes . Outside is hot and sticky from MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT on Vimeo.
WARNING - contains strong language!
'Why Echoes, it's a good question... It came from one of my first essays, also called echoes. This essay was an echo into my past life, a reverberation to and from the life I had made for myself. [...]
Echoes of a parallel life, of the life we were expected, or trained to live, but there, just on the periphery, just out of reach, is another life – a life – a much better life – the life we all hope to live, but not many do ... It's there, just there – bouncing, echoing around in everyone's head, but it is just that, an echo, a parallel never to be reached or experienced...'
Nick Bullock
You can find the trailer here - https://vimeo.com/47504924
The REEL ROCK 7 trailer by Big Up Productions and Sender Films. Coming to a theater near you starting Fall 2012. reelrocktour.com for more info. Like facebook.com/reelrock to win prizes from TNF, Gore-Tex and more. Contact booking@reelrocktour.com to inquire about a show. Starring Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra,Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk, Sasha DiGiulian, Daila Ojeda, The Wide Boyz and more... The 7th annual REEL ROCK Film Tour, launching fall 2012, brings the best in climbing and adventure films to local audiences across the globe. Events include prize giveaways and appearances by top climbers. REEL ROCK 7 will travel to over 350 locations across the globe.
try harder... - A Rocklands Journey from Ben Norman on Vimeo.
I had the opportunity to spend 3 weeks in the climbing paradise of Rocklands, South Africa, during the August this year. This is a video I put together about my Rocklands Journey. I hope I've managed to convey some sort of idea of how spectacular both the environment and the climbing really are and I would urge anyone to go if you have the chance!
BD athlete Daniel Jung on INGA (9a) at Gorges du Loop, France from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
Black Diamond athlete Daniel Jung spent some time in southern France last year and recently sent us the following report and video of his redpoint of INGA (9a), a combo route that starts with a boulder problem and finishes with roped climbing.
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I went climbing in the Loup Gorge in southern France towards the end of September. Gorges du Loup means steep walls, sintered rock, but unfortunately chipped holds too. In the Deverse sector there are not too many natural routes. Those few that aren't chipped, however, are super cool!
I liked INGA a lot. It is unchipped and probably the steepest route in the sector. It was first climbed by Dai Koyamada and repeated by Enzo Oddo. The first half of the route runs underneath a roof that is protected with crash pads. After that, you exit via a short route called 7pm J.P. Show (8c). The boulder problem roof can be climbed by itself too—it's supposed to be about 8B. Before I get into linking an 8c after an 8B boulder, I had to be certain first that I could be certain to do the 8c exit.
I could free 7pm on my fifth attempt—things were going well! I did not find 7pm particularly hard for an 8c ... But in the end, the last ten moves on sloping holds were to be the crux of the whole of INGA after all.
After a lot of guesswork about hook placements to keep my rear end on the wall, I solved the roof boulder. But I still wasn't overly optimistic. Heat waves, cuts, or calm winds could make the climb impossible yet. But fortunately everything worked out and I could climb the roof boulder for the first time. That was a very suspenseful affair! I ended up falling off the last hard moves before the anchor... I was too excited.
After a long break I made another attempt. Just for practice, because the route would not be in the shade for long and the sun was on its way. The boulder went really well again and I was just below the last slopers below the anchor—and the sun was there too! But it all worked out well and I could get to the anchor before the sun. So INGA had been freed earlier than expected and I was once again ecstatic!
The story of 7pm is very interesting. The line was bolted by a Mr. J.P.. with the intention to chip a 7b route. Fortunately he was scooped by Alex Franko who could climb the natural line free. 7pm J.P. Show is the only natural 8c line in the sector... so folks, don't go chipping holds ;-)
Talk to you soon!
Daniel
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