■BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (9b) at Oliana, Spain

BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (9b) at Oliana, Spain from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi, a massive 9b line at Oliana, Spain in late April. This is likely one of the hardest sport climb in the world. We had Bernardo Gimenez on the scene to document Adam’s efforts and he was fortunate enough to be there for the redpoint. Below is the outstanding video Bernardo edited together, as well as brief recap from Adam. Stunning. Impressive. Inspiring. Absolutely bad ass. Congratulations, Adam.
=====================================

Oliana is one of my favorite areas in the whole region of northern Spain. It’s a stunning 50-meter long wall of orange and blue limestone with complex climbing. The wall dries out rather quickly, so I had the opportunity to try out one of projects that Chris bolted called Chaxi Raxi already the first day after the period of rain. It felt very difficult at the beginning, especially the very first crux. I could do every single move, but to link two of them seemed incredibly difficult. The top part seemed more possible—I could link the moves without serious problems except two of them, where I found terrible extra-powerful beta skipping two holds, until Chris told me to try it differently, a much more crimpy and static way. Though crimps are what I excel at and Chris prefers big moves on reasonable holds, our initial betas had been completely the other way around.

Getting back to Chaxi Raxi, I stunned myself that I managed to send the easier variation, skipping the first bouldery section via a detour of 7b, which could be around 9a+ on its own right. There was the time now to work a lot on the lower boulder problem and then I might be able send. But that was hard. I didn't go very well, but I steadily kept progressing, and the sixth day I manged to get through the first crux, which could a hard 8B+ boulder problem on its own. I took a rest on the tufa and continued. I made it through the crux sections, but in the end of the last difficult, being 100% confident of success, my left heel slipped. And I did not manage to get through the bottom again that day. I got through it once on my 7th day, I fell a few moves below my highpoint, as I didn't hit the hold right while making dynamic move. I got pretty nervous, since I knew I was able to send it, but I had mere one day left and there are so many sections to make a tiny mistake which might ruin my attempt and also the day, because it is very hard to link the bottom twice in a day. On the first go of my last day, I made it through the first crux somehow, got to the rest and stayed there for a few minutes. This rest is actually enormously useful for the whole route, without the place to shake out it would be undoubtedly 9b+, but it is also a place where you can easily get nervous and think about potential failure. That is what happened to me. The way I continued climbing one can't call efficient at all, but the route was tiny bit below my absolute limit after eight days of work, and despite getting pumped, I got somehow to the anchor and could enjoy the feeling of victory on the last day of the trip yet again. This is probably my hardest route I have ever done.

— Adam

■Monkee Family: Anthony Gullsten in Font

Monkee Family: Anthony Gullsten in Font from Alvi Pakarinen on Vimeo.

Andy doing what he does best on his first trip to the forest.
Make sure to check out the music artists! Super talented guys...

Music:
Of Porcelain - Here for Now
http://ofporcelain.bandcamp.com/

Little People - Start Shootin'
http://www.littlepeoplemusic.com/

■'First Try Friday' at Red Feather with Dave Graham and Jimmy Webb

'First Try Friday' at Red Feather with Dave Graham and Jimmy Webb from Jon Cardwell on Vimeo.

Jamie Emerson shows Dave Graham, Jimmy Webb and Rami Annab around the boulders in Red Feather, Colorado. It was friday so first tries were high priority. Featuring The Mastadon V12 and The Big Bang V12.

■The Ali Nomad 5.14b, First Ascent in Clear Creek Canyon

The Ali Nomad 5.14b, First Ascent in Clear Creek Canyon from Jon Cardwell on Vimeo.

Dave Graham makes the first ascent of Ali Nomad, a hybrid boulder/route in Clear Creek Canyon. Estillo de Andrada!

■Tiger Blood sneak peak

Tiger Blood sneak peak from 3d Media Watch on Vimeo.

in the mind of joe kinder sending tiger blood 5.14c

■Three Month Road Trip: Part One

Three Month Road Trip: Part One from Thomas Camillieri on Vimeo.

Three Month Road Trip: Part One

■Three Month Road Trip: Part Two

Three Month Roadtrip: Part Two from Thomas Camillieri on Vimeo.

Three Month Roadtrip: Part Two - Ozarks

■Three Month Road Trip: Part Three

Three Month Roadtrip: Part Three from Thomas Camillieri on Vimeo.

Three Month Roadtrip: Part Three - Hueco Tanks

■Smith rock(s)

Smith rock(s) from Florent Wolff on Vimeo.

Pierre Bollinger making the first ascent of "Shoot'm Up" (5.14b / 8c, Smith Rock, Oregon, USA).

About this ascent, please read :
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/french_climber_sends_smith_rock_project/
or (in French) :
http://www.grimper.com/News/3777-pierre-bollinger-fait-parler-de-lui-aux-etats-unis.html
http://www.escalade-alsace.com/articles/ShootmUp_Pierre.php

Men’s Final Results
1. Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 1t4 4b7
2. Klemen Becan SLO 1t5 4b12
3. Lukas Ennemose AUT 0t 3b9
4. Loïc Gaidioz FRA 0t 2b2
5. Jernej Kruder SLO 0t 2b2
6. Rustam Gelamanov RUS 0t 2b6

Women’s Final Results
1. Anna Stöhr AUT 4t13 4b4
2. Alex Puccio USA 2t2 3b3
3. Olga Shalagina UKR 1t1 3b3
4. Jain Kim KOR 1t1 2b2
5. Anne-Laure Chevrier FRA 1t3 4b9
6. Petra Klingler SUI 1t4 4b8

■Boulder World Cup 2011 report - Vienna

Anna Stöhr won her second World Cup in a row in Vienna and is leading the women's ranking after the third event with quite a margin. With the boys, the situation is a bit more complicated since Kilian Fischhuber got stuck in the qualification round. After his second place in Slovenia, Dmitry Sharafutdinov was climbing really well again and rightfully won in Vienna. Barely a week after Slovenia, the Vienna event didn't quite match that event, the stage is really too low and the audience had a hard time to watch especially the lower parts of the problems. Route setting was most good (just a bit too hard at the boys finals) with some pretty bad problems thrown in, more on that after a closer analyses...
■IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Vienna - 2011

Highlights of the Boulderig WC in Vienna (AUT)
2011/05/16

Bouldering Switzerland

■Bouldering Switzerland

Bouldering Switzerland from Boulderholics on Vimeo.

7 Tage Bouldern in der Schweiz.
Gebiete: Brione, Chironico, Magic Wood

Den Bericht im Block gibt es hier:
http://www.boulderholics.de/blog/index.php?/archives/22-7-Tage-Schweiz-Bouldern-im-Tessin-18.10.-25.10.09.html

All Music from Jamendo.com
Artist:
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/Oursvince
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/toosharien
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/alexander.blu
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/nobody
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/drunksouls
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/Beatsix
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/The_Twins_%282%29
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/adrugan
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/tryad
http://www.jamendo.com/en/artist/R2o

■James Pearson climbing in Pembroke, Wales

James Pearson climbing in Pembroke, Wales from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

In April 2011 British climber James Pearson onsighted a handful of E8's, repeated Muy Caliente E10 in Pembroke, Wales.

■MELLOBLOCCO -The Solution- Official 2011

New official video MELLOBLOCCO 2011. Special Guest: Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Alexandra Balakileva, Mauro Calibani, Michele Caminati, Gabriele Moroni, Barbara Zangerl, Daila Ojeda, James Person, Raffaella Cottalorda, Circo Abusivo.
http://www.melloblocco.it
http://www.arsenikofilm.com

■Chris Sharma, Melloblocco 2011

Chris Sharma, Melloblocco 2011 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

Chris Sharma al Melloblocco 2011 su Mister Manta (presunto 7C/+). Video by Nicola Noè

■Adam Ondra, Melloblocco 2011

Adam Ondra, Melloblocco 2011 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

Adam Ondra al Melloblocco 2011 su Mister Manta (presunto 7C/+). Video by Nicola Noè

■Mauro Calibani, Melloblocco 2011

Mauro Calibani, Melloblocco 2011 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

Mauro calibani al Melloblocco 2011 su Mister Manta. Video by Nicola Noè

■MELLOBLOCCO 2011 Ondra, Sharma, Moroni, Caminati, Pedeferri

I big Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Gabriele Moroni e Michele Caminati si confrontano sui blocchi di gara. Neandertal, The English Dream, Mister Manta.

Spiegazioni e commenti del tracciatore Simone Pedeferri.

Video prodotto da UPclimbing.com
Montaggio: Camilla Cerretti
■Melloblocco 2011 - Adam Ondra in azione e Simone Pedeferri
■Alexey Rubtsov in Magic Wood

Alexey Rubtsov in Magic Wood from Pavel Isaev on Vimeo.

Boulders are:

dinos dont't dynos, 7B+

dark sakai, 8B

deep throat, 8B

Merci pour la musique, Courtney


Belgian Olivier Mignon, Raphaël Fernandez, Tim Brijs and Nicolas Mathieu in Magic Wood and Brione
■magic wood/brione 2011

bouldering with friends in april 2011 in swizzy
■The Real Core
www.iclimb.com
Over two years ago, Italian climber Christian Core climbed one of the hardest boulder problems in the world named Gioia (Joy in English) and gave it a tentative grade of 8c or V15. The problem is still unrepeated today despite being attempted by Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra, Chris Webb Parsons, Dai Koyamada, and numerous other strong climbers with many questioning if the problem might not actually be V16. This exclusive FREE download is available only at iCLIMB.com. Also includes some insight and philosophy from Christian as well as some footage featuring his wife Stella Marchisio who is also a very strong climber herself. Hope you enGIOIA this video.

Running Time: 11 Minutes
■The Riverbed | Magic Wood

The Riverbed | Magic Wood from zlu haller - chalkjunkie.at on Vimeo.

After I dropped the 25th move for the second time due to a massive pump I finally managed to get on top of this amazing climb.

For more info&photos check: http://www.moonclimbing.com/Tobias-Haller---A-Quickie-in-Magic-Wood---The-Riverbed-8B-n-1012.html

www.chalkjunkie.at

■Heather Robinson: Balance

Heather Robinson: Balance from Prana Living on Vimeo.

As a doctor of veterinary medicine from Las Vegas, Nevada, I work as a general practitioner for small animals, performing anything from routine physical exams and vaccinations to minor surgeries. I discovered rock climbing eight years ago while studying at CSU in Ft. Collins, CO. and after moving back to Las Vegas four years ago, I discovered the endless local sport climbing and embraced the art of projecting difficult routes.

I like the challenge of trying something harder than I've ever tried before, and the commitment it takes to accomplish that goal. Balancing my devotion to a professional career and my passion for rock climbing is truly rewarding.

One of my strengths is that I don't give up. For me, sport climbing requires the same kind of tenacity, mental focus, and dedication that got me through veterinary school. I made the first female ascent (FFA) of Power Windows – my first 5.13d – at Mt. Potosi, NV this past spring.

Ultimately, trying to climb at my limit allows me to achieve things I never thought possible.

~Heather Robinson

For more on Heather visit http://www.prAna.com

■La Sportiva presents Python!

Sensitive, snug, precise. La Sportiva presents the new Python. Starring: Pietro Dal Pra and the python "River".

No Pain No Spain from Boreal Video on Vimeo.

We would like to present you another issue with some of the strongest Boreal team members. We have Nacho Sanchez, Ignasi Tarrazona, Bruno Macias and last but not least the inspirational Pedro Pons in this movie.
See your self and get inspired by nothing more than No Pain No Spain!

■VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Kevin Jorgeson bouldering at the Buttermilks

VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Kevin Jorgeson bouldering at the Buttermilks from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete Kevin Jorgeson reckons he has spent more time at the iconic Buttermilk Boulders than any other climbing area, amassing an impressive list of first ascents and repeats, including some of the area's stoutest highballs. Out in the Buttermilks this past March, lensman Andy Mann filmed with Jorgeson for a couple of days, and edited together this video profile that captures Jorgeson's personality and passion for the art of bouldering. A climbing highlight of the video profile is Jorgeson's second ascent of Dale Bard's Transporter Room (V5 X) one of the most historically significant highballs at the Buttermilks.

2010 REEL ROCK Film Tour DVDより。

■Origins - The Hulk

Climbing legend Peter Croft mentors boulderer Lisa Rands on the finer points of alpine free climbing during an ascent of Venturi Effect, Croft's spectacular route on The Incredible Hulk, in California's Sierra Nevada. This is the second installment in the Origins series, presented by Evolv shoes with The North Face and Mountain Gear. Featured on the 2010 REEL ROCK Film Tour DVD and HD Download. www.bigupproductions.com. www.senderfilms.com.
Music by Robots With Hearts, Todayokay, The Brute Chorus, New Town Kings, Sub Rosa, Stax Dempsey,
■Jule dreams of bouldering

featuring Juliane Wurm bouldering in Fontainebleau, France. Shot with a Lumix GH2 and the Wanderlust "PinWide" pinhole "lens" as well as a 26mm toy lens and the Panasonic 7-14mm lens.
Men’s Final Results
1. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet FRA 3t3 4b6
2. Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 3t6 4b9
3. Kilian Fischhuber AUT 2t3 4b6
4. Loïc Gaidioz FRA 2t5 4b11
5. Alexey Rubstov RUS 1t1 4b5
6. Fabien Comina FRA 0t 4b9

Women’s Final Results
1. Anna Stöhr AUT 2t3 4b6
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t6 3b6
3. Alex Puccio USA 1t3 3b6
4. Katja Vidmar SLO 0t 3b10
5. Jenny Lavarda ITA 0t 1b1
6. Natalija Gros 0t 1b2

■Boulder World Cup 2011 report - Log-Dragomer

Anna Stöhr and Glairon Mondet Guillaume were the undisputed winners of the second Boulder World Cup of 2011 that will be always remembered for its funky route setting, especially for the girls. The uncoated panels allowed for some truly remarkable problems that spanned from demanding rather old school but highly refined climbing skills to the most new school jumps. The problems only had one thing in common: they were all awkward! As chief route setter Percy Bishton put it: "A nightmare for the competitors, but hey, I'm not paid for being nice!" For the audience that was one of the best Boulder World Cups ever!
■IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Log Dragomer - 2011

Highlights of the Bouldering WC in Log Dragomer - SLO
1.積極性

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. I Agressividade. from NorteBouldering on Vimeo.

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. I Agressividade.

Um Minuto em Corno de Bico.

The Seven Pillars of Bouldering. I Aggressiveness.

A minute in Corno de Bico.

First segment of a web series in seven episodes that tries to give a comprehensive definition of bouldering.

The first episode represents the fighting spirit that is present in Bouldering. All condensed in one minute in our favorite spot: Corno de Bico.

2.開拓
Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. II Exploração

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. II Exploração from NorteBouldering on Vimeo.

The Seven Pillars of Bouldering. II. Exploration.

Calcedónia, the last frontier.

Second segment of a web series in seven episodes that tries to give a comprehensive definition of bouldering.

This episode takes us to the Calcedónia region in Gerês National Park, and depicts the discovery and climbing of the bouldering problem "Asinha de Peluche" V9 cs.

3.力

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. III Força. from NorteBouldering on Vimeo.

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. III Força.
O Labirinto dos Enganos.
The Seven Pillars of Bouldering. III. Power.
The Maze of Deceit.
Third segment of a web series in seven episodes that tries to give a comprehensive definition of bouldering.
This episode shows us the redpoint by Júlio Braga of one of is most powerful problems: O Labirinto (The maze) (V13 ss) located in Corno de Bico, Portugal.

4.技術

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. IV Técnica. from NorteBouldering on Vimeo.

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. IV. Técnica.

Dançando com as Placas.

The Seven Pillars of Bouldering. IV. Technique.

Dancing With the Slabs.

Fourth segment of a web series in seven episodes that tries to give a comprehensive definition of bouldering.

This segment takes us to Serra da Freita to meet the amazing slab Disquete Bizarra ( Bizarre Floppy Disk ) a climb dominated by the feet technique.

5.粘り

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. V. Resiliência. from NorteBouldering on Vimeo.

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. V. Resiliência.

Levantado do Chão.

The Seven Pillars of Bouldering. V Resilience.

Raised from the ground.

Fifth segment of a web series in seven episodes that tries to give a comprehensive definition of bouldering.

Resilience. Get punched, go to the mat, get up and continue fighting. This is boxing, and is also bouldering, with the difference to us that the rounds can last for days, months, seasons, years...

6.戦略

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. VI Táctica. from NorteBouldering on Vimeo.

Os Sete Pilares do Bouldering. VI Táctica.
Jogo de Cabeça.
The Seven Pillars of Bouldering. VI Tactics.
Mind Games.
sixht segment of a web series in seven episodes that tries to give a comprehensive definition of bouldering.

...to be continued
「PURE」、「CORE」のChuck frybergerの新作のようです。

■The Scene Official Trailer

The Scene Official Trailer from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

THE SCENE


From the director of PURE and CORE, get ready to infiltrate four of the biggest scenes in the world of climbing.

Moab, Utah: a mellow desert town surrounded by massive sandstone towers, where climbers test the limits of danger while still maintaining a strict traditional ethic. Boulder, Colorado: the undisputed social hub of US climbing, with sponsored athletes of every discipline living in a city packed-full of talent, competition, and progressive ideas. Innsbruck, Austria: with possibly the highest concentration of talent in the world, the competition climbers here fight not only for the tops of podiums, but also corporate sponsorships and mainstream success. Catalunya, Spain: with near-limitless potential, Northern Spain has claimed the title of sport climbing capital of the world, and is now home to climbing's largest population of elite sport climbers.

Filmed in stunning 4K Ultra High Definition, get ready for a fast-paced ride through the centers of the climbing universe.


Featured Climbers:

Chris Sharma
Steph Davis
Nalle Hukkataival
Rob Pizem
Dave Graham
Matt Wilder
Pat Goodman
Dani Andrada
Anna Stohr
Alex Johnson
Kilian Fischhuber
Cody Roth
Much Mayr
Ramon Julian
Paxti Usobiaga
Daila Ojeda


With Appearances from:
Edu Marin
Ethan Pringle
Porter Jarrard
Jessa Goebel
Alex Puccio
Jerry Moffat
Christian Griffith
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou
Bennett Scott
James O'Connor


Areas Featured:
Moab, USA
Joe's Valley, USA
Boulder, USA
The New River Gorge, USA
Bishop, USA
Innsbruck, Austria
Brixen, Italy
Kranj, Slovenia
Catalunya, Spain

Directed by Chuck Fryberger
A Production of Chuck Fryberger Films

Presented by: La Sportiva, Mountain Hardwear, prAna, Sterling Ropes, and Samsara Climbing Holds.

The Scene: Chris Sharma from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.

Chris Sharma shares what it's like to play a part in the climbing scene in Spain and the adventure that he finds while sport climbing.

This video is an excerpt from the new climbing film The Scene by Chuck Fryberger Films. For more info on the film, the tours, and how to buy a DVD...visit www.thescenefilm.com.

■BD athlete Chris Webb Parsons battling back in Hueco Tanks, Texas

BD athlete Chris Webb Parsons battling back in Hueco Tanks, Texas from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

After Crown of Aragon blew up his shoulder, Black Diamond athlete Chris Webb Parsons endured the long and difficult road of recovery. He knew, though, that he had a score to settle in Hueco Tanks and returned early this year to even things up. Below is the video he put together documenting the roller coaster of injuries and success.

■BD athlete Chris Schulte bouldering in Fontainebleau

BD athlete Chris Schulte bouldering in Fontainebleau from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete Chris Schulte has been over in Europe for most of 2011, bouldering in France and Switzerland. Here is the video he put together from his stay in Fontainbleau that does a great job of capturing the subtle technique adjustments Font requires.