■Bouldering Switzerland - Trailer

Bouldering Switzerland - Trailer from Boulderholics on Vimeo.

Der Trailer zum neuen Boulderholics Streifen "Bouldering Switzerland".

Die Premiere des Films wird auf dem Boulderholics Cup am 6. Februar 2010 sein. Nicht verpassen!

The trailer for the upcoming Boulderholics Movie "Bouldering Switzerland".

The premiere of the movie is on the Boulderholics Cup at the 6. february. Don't miss it.

More infos on "http://www.boulderholics.de/"



1. Magnus Midtbø
2. Daniel Woods
3. Matt Hong
4. Josh Levin
5. Ian Dory

1. Sasha DiGiulian
2. Lauren Lee
3. Paige Claassen
4. Shannon Lochridge
5. Chelsea Rude


■Mens Finals SCS National Championships

Mens Finals SCS National Championships from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Mens Finals SCS National Championships with Carlo Traversi, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Gabor Szekley, and Magnus Midtboe battle for the National Title.

■Womens Finals SCS National Sport Climbing Championship

Womens Finals SCS National Sport Climbing Championship from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Womens Finals SCS National Sport Climbing Championships with Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, Paige Claassen, Lauren Lee, Emily Harrington, Chelsea Rude, Sasha Dejulian, and Cicada Jenerik.

■Sport Climbing Nationals Prelims 2010

Sport Climbing Nationals Prelims 2010 from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Mens #1, #2 and Womens #1 at Momentum climbing gym in Utah. Sport Climbing Nationals Prelims 2010!


■Tuesday Night Bouldering
Nate Draughnのアップした映像をまとめて。

■Chain Slang and Hustle & Flow(v10)

Chain Slang and Hustle & Flow(v10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Jimmy Webb doing FA of Chain Slang(v10).
Nate Draughn doing Hustle and Flow(v10).

■Patio Roof(V9) and Kamikaze(V10)

Patio Roof(V9) and Kamikaze(V10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Josh Shephard doing Patio Roof.
Me doing Kamikaze.
AT Rumbling Bald.

■Back at School

Back at School from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

My friend Josh and I climbing near the border of NC&TN.

-Broad side of the barn Door(V9) 4th ascent.
-Kobe Bryant(V9)

■A Day At The Bald

A Day At The Bald from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Me doing...
The second ascent of Fresh Water V10.
The second ascent of Salt Water V9.
Albatros V9.
& the FA of Optimus Prime SDS V9.

■Some Southern Shizzz.

Some Southern Shizzz. from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Rami Annab doing Big Poppa(V8).
Jimmy Webb doing the FA of Innovation(V9).
Nate Draughn doing Squeezebox(V8).

■Iron Claw Sit(V10) and Blackout(V10)

Iron Claw Sit(V10) and Blackout(V10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn doing Iron Claw Sit and Blackout at Rocktown in La Fayette, GA.

■Back in Boone

Back in Boone from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and Brion Voges in Boone, NC at Lost Cove.
Nate Draughn climbs On Any Sunday(V10).
Brion Voges climbs On Any Sunday sit (V11).
Rami Annab climbs Two Pop(V9).

■Clear Creek Canyon

Clear Creek Canyon from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn climbing Muddy Waters(V11) and The Dark Waters Traverse(V10) at clear creek canyon.

■Some More Joe's Valley

Some More Joe's Valley from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Nate Draughn climbing Moment of Truth(V10) and Gurkhaknife(V9) at Joe's Valley. Also John Gass climbing Bring the Heat(V8) and Tom doing Maxipad(V6).


■Rock climbers - Trailer

First climbing movie from hany.info production. Trailer of new document film about czech climbers.
■Rock climbers - Arrival to Cliffbase - Trailer

First part of new documentary film called "Rock climbers" from hany.info production. Cliffbase is little bay on Hvar island in Croatia.
ハニー・インフォプロダクションによる新しいドキュメンタリーフィルム「ロッククライマーズ」の最初のパート。クロアチアのHvar islandの小さい湾にクライミングの拠点を置いて
■Rock climbers - Adrenalin plus - Trailer

Second part of new documentary film called "Rock climbers" from hany.info production. Outdoor action Adrenalin+, rope jumping from bridge.
■Rock climbers - Rätikon mountains - Trailer

Third part of new documentary film called "Rock climbers" from hany.info production. Multi-pitch climbing in Switzerland mountains, walking in the mountains.
■BD athlete Matt Segal packing for Patagonia

BD athlete Matt Segal packing for Patagonia from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete Matt Segal is currently down in Argentine Patagonia, waiting out day after day of jingus weather, in the hopes of scoring one good window in which to make an ascent in the Cerro Torre or Fitzroy massifs.

Here is an email Segal sent us from El Chalten, as well as a video of his last-minute preparations to get packed and out the door to catch his flight down to South America.

From: Matt Segal
Subject: Re: in El Chalten
Date: January 20, 2010 7:15:52 AM MST

About a month ago my friend Jason Kruk asked if I wanted to head south to Patagonia for a few weeks to join him and Jon Gleason since their third partner had bailed. Two days later I had my ticket… Why not? It would be my first real trip to the mountains (besides a few short missions in North America) but it seemed like a perfect opportunity, Jason is an aspiring mountain guide and Jon used to be on Yosemite Search and Rescue. I’d be the gumby of the team… Sweet!

We arrived in El Chalten about a week ago and the weather has been absolutely horrible in the mountains. We hiked a bunch of food and gear up to the glacier so we’d be ready when the weather splits but unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be getting any better. Luckily there is decent bouldering, sport climbing and “mucho cervezas” to keep us sane in town.

Here is a short video on packing for a big trip that my friend John Dickey helped me film… Stay tuned for more updates.

Reel Rock Film Contest 2009のActionカテゴリーで優勝したフィルムです。凝ってます。

Reel Rock Film Tourについてはこちら

■2009 Reel Rock Film Contest Winner- Action

2009 Reel Rock Film Contest Winner- Action from Rogue State Films on Vimeo.

This was my entry for the 2009 Reel Rock film tour contest and it ended up winning the action category. Hope you enjoy!


[Gym] Spider Club in Budapest


■Spider Club - Budapest

Spider Club - Budapest from magnezia.blog.hu on Vimeo.

Spider Club - Budapest

■Patxi Usobiaga
Patxi Usobiaga climbing Biographie 9a+

Patxi Usobiaga climbing Biographie 9a+ from patxi usobiaga on Vimeo.

Filmed by Iñaki Marco and Miguel Catita.
Edited by Patxi Usobiaga.


Yuji Hirayama Slide Show 1
Yuji Hirayama Slide Show 2
Yuji Hirayama Slide Show Q&A Session

菊地敏之講演会「トラディショナル フリークライミングとは」

■Climbing WC Kazo 2007 Women Final

■2010 Ouray Ice Festival Trailer

■Sam Elias finishing second at 2010 Ouray Ice Festival climbing comp

Sam Elias finishing second at 2010 Ouray Ice Festival climbing comp from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete and regional tech rep Sam Elias finished second in the 2010 Ouray Ice Festival. This video shows Elias barely finishing the route under the 20-minute time limit. Congratulations, Sam!

■Will Gadd Endless Ascent

Will Gadd- The Endless Ascent from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.

Arc'teryx Athlete Will Gadd climbs vertical ice for 24 hours at the Ouray Ice Festival to raise money and awareness for the dZi Foundation. Get a behind the scenes look at his physical preparation and the grueling 24 hour event.

■Ines Papert Slideshow

Ines Papert Slideshow from Yuieno on Vimeo.

1/10 9:00 - 10:00
Beaumont Hotel @Ouray
Ines Papert Slideshow

■"Short and Sweet Slideshow" by Timmy O’Neill

"Short and Sweet Slideshow" by Timmy O’Neill from Yuieno on Vimeo.

2010/1/9 @Ouray Community Center

"Short and Sweet Slideshow" by Timmy O’Neill

■LIVE AUCTION hosted by Timmy O’Neil

LIVE AUCTION hosted by Timmy O’Neil from Yuieno on Vimeo.

1/9 19:00 - 21:00
LIVE AUCTION hosted by Timmy O’Neil

■Ouray Ice Climbing January 2010.wmv

Slava is climbing....высоко высоко

■Kandersteg Ice Festival '10

Kandersteg Ice Festival '10 from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Bkack Diamond, Arc'Teryx, Bächli Bergsport, Lowa, Nokia, Kandersteg.

■BD athlete Chris Schulte bouldering in Hueco Tanks, Texas

BD athlete Chris Schulte bouldering in Hueco Tanks, Texas from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete Chris Schulte recently returned from Hueco Tanks, Texas where he battled to pull off a host of quality repeats and even a first ascent or two. Here is Chris’s video he made that highlights the action, from V2 mega-classics to V12 power-fests.

To read Chris's trip report, go to blackdiamondequipment.com and search "CHRIS SCHULTE".


■Will Gadd Ice Climbing in Marble Canyon

Will Gadd Ice Climbing in Marble Canyon from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.

Arc'teryx athlete Will Gadd climbs a thin ice pillar in beautiful Marble Canyon, British Columbia.


Frankenjura Climbing


■Frankenjura 2009 - Trailer

Frankenjura 2009 - Trailer from Waldi on Vimeo.

Long video about Frankenjura climbing and bouldering coming in Oktober!!!

■Frankenjura 2009

Frankenjura 2009 from Waldi on Vimeo.

Finally the whole video of 2009's season in Frankenjura. Enjoy...

■Metamorphose Frankenjura

Metamorphose Frankenjura from Waldi on Vimeo.

Boulder Metamorphose 7A+ in Frankenjura


Frodo from Waldi on Vimeo.

■Frankenjura Bouldering diverse

Frankenjura Bouldering diverse from Waldi on Vimeo.


Video I did for DEAD POINT MAGAZINE of Daniel Woods Crushing the infamous Chinese Arithmetic V13/14 and Testify V12 at the lilly boulders Tennessee. Check out www.deadpointmag.com for more climbing videos
■Melloblocco - bouldering event

■Bouldering Athens

Bouldering Athens from Nick Kalisz on Vimeo.

A short Documentary created about Bouldering around Athens, Ohio. This is just the beginning of what will be an on going experiment. Let me know what you think.



■2nd, Bernd Zangerl, 2001
Dreamtime, 8c - second ascent by Bernd Zangerl, 2001

Dreamtime by Fred Nicole was the world's first 8c boulder problem in 2000. Bernd Zangerl climbed the second ascent in 2001. A couple of years later a controversy about if or if not Dreamtime got chipped started. Maybe this clip can shed some light into that question!
Koyamada Dai Climbs Dreamtime V15

Koyamada Dai climbing Fred Nicole's benchmark V15 boulder problem in Cresciano, Switzerland. It only took him 2 days, beating Chris Sharma's previous 6 day record. Dreamtime has since been downgrad...
■Chris Sharma
Escalada / climb - Dream time ''v15'' Chris Sharma

Chris Sharma mandando Dream time...
■Dave Graham
Dave Graham Bouldering Dreamtime

Dave sending "dreamtime" V15
■Christian Core, 2003
Christian Core, Dreamtime, Cresciano

Christian Core, Dreamtime, Cresciano from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

Christian Core repeats Dreamtime at Cresciano in 2003, the boulder first climbed by Fred Nicole in 2000. Video by Marzio Nardi.

■BD athlete Paul Robinson climbing Dreamtime (8B+) and Ninja Skills (8B+)

BD athlete Paul Robinson climbing Dreamtime (8B+) and Ninja Skills (8B+) from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson has spent the late fall of 2010 bouldering on the granite blocks of Switzerland, managing to nab a series of impressive ascents including two 8Cs (Big Paw and Ill Trill), as well as two well-known 8B+'s: the famed Dreamtime and the second ascent of fellow BD athlete Nalle Hukkataival's Ninja Skills. Below is a video Robinson edited together of these two 8B+ problems, as well as others at the higher end of the grading scale. Nice work, Paul!

■Christian Core
Christian Core boulder Dream time 8c Cresciano

Climber Christian Core
Blocco: Dream time 8c
■Adam Ondra

■Dream Time 8A(+)

Bouldering of 4 power men in SWISS. Cresciano and Chironico. Their dream comes true.

[Comp] ss & sss



スイートな映像の作り手sébastien montaz-rossetによる新しいシリーズ。10本作られるそうです。

■Dry tooling and Ice climbing in Gressoney, Aosta valley, Italy

Dry tooling and Ice climbing in Gressoney, Aosta valley, Italy from sébastien montaz-rosset on Vimeo.

Here is the first of 10 webisodes of the "Daily Grind" serie. They will feature some of our climbing and skiing days with friends presenting some of the unknown and most esthetical destinations in the Alps for mountain sports addicts.
Thanks to the Mountainshop.com for making this informative videos possible.

Do not hesitate to share this video.

All the best for this coming new year.

My web sites:

Filming and production: jefilm.com

Mountain guiding: chamonixguiding.com

ski coaching:

follow me on twitter: twitter.com/sebmontaz

To contact me: info@chamonixguiding.com

c) 2009 a film by Seb Montaz-Rosset.


■Natalija Gros - New Dimension Teaser

Natalija Gros - New Dimension Teaser from Film IT on Vimeo.

FilmIT.si sports division "New Partisan Cinema" presents

"New Dimension" - Teaser

Starring: Natalija Gros
Director: Jure Breceljnik
Camera: Jure Breceljnik
Post-production: Erik Kapfer
Music: Some1Else


■Building a block

Building a block from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

A short timelapse where Saku and Jarmo are building a boulder to new and upcoming Boulderkeskus Konala (in Finland)

■Building a wave

Building a wave from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Tomi and Teemu are building a wave profile to Boulderkeskus Konala.

■Aalto-profile vol. 2

Aalto-profile vol. 2 from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Teemu and Tomi building the wave (Aalto) profile. There is not much left before the profile is finished. So this is the last timelapse of wave-series =)

■Building the globe profile

Building the globe profile from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

The first part of building is cutting the plywood so that the profile can be built. A stupid and short video displaying this tedious work.

■Building the Pro Wall

Building the Pro Wall from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Pro Wall is 36 degree overhanging wall with too small holds for being handholds and too good for being the foot holds.

So, this wall is for the climbers who like to crank - hard.

■A Sneak Peek

A Sneak Peek from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Just a sneak peek to BK Konala :)

■Building Death Star #2

Building Death Star #2 from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

After cutting the sheets, the sheets must be combined into slices (like in orange). After that the slices are combined into a (almost real) Death Star.

■Building Death Star, part #no_clue

Building Death Star, part #no_clue from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Teemu and Tomi building Death Star futher. Other people dancing around are just admiring the process :)

■Building Death Star, part #4

Building Death Star, part #4 from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Putting the pieces together and lifting the star ot its final place. The next step is to weld the stuff that keeps the star on its orbit.

■Painting the first profile

Painting the first profile from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Jarmo and Mr. Hukkataival painting the base colour for the first profile. Still "a couple" of square meters to go.

■Building a boulder tube

Building a boulder tube from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Me (Jarmo) and Tomi building a 17m long overhanging boulder tube. The tube will rise to 8m and the floor will follow 2 meters below the roof so that the falls won't be a factor when cranking the endurance to the next level :)

■Changing lights

Changing lights from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Just a short timelapse of light changing.

Dead Point Magazine No.8へリンクを張りました。

Dalton Hilfingerの映像をもう一つ。今年リリースされるらしいDVD?

■Conditions Trailer

Conditions Trailer from dalton hilfinger on Vimeo.


■Bouldering with Nate

Bouldering with Nate from dalton hilfinger on Vimeo.

20年も前のコンペ映像。ウォルフガンク・ギュリッヒはAction Directeの初登などで著名なクライマー。YouTubeには彼の古い映像がたくさんアップされているようです。

■Wolfgang GULLICH vs Patrick EDLINGER, 1989
ウド・ノイマンはカルト的なクライミング教本であるPerformance Rock Climbingの著者で、ドイツでもクライミング界の顔的な存在みたいですが、その彼の約10年前のメキシコ、アメリカ旅行の様子。課題は有名なMidnight Lightningなど。

■Mexico-USA trip 1999-2000

Ten years ago Kirsten Buchmann, Klem Loskot, Werner "Gamsi" Gamsjäger and Udo Neumann embarked on a 2 month bouldering and surfing trip to the western US and Mexico's Baja California. It was Klem's and Udo's first trip "only" for their book "Der XI. Grad". Mind you, for the millenium change many people were concerned how all these machines and computers would deal with the '00 year and some expected civilization to end right at the millenium change ;-) Another side note: we are better surfers nowadays!

So iLL GRIP WASH from Cryptochild on Vimeo.

A NEW Cleaning system specifically made for
climbing holds. Grip Wash removes all normal dirt
associated with climbing holds (rubber, chalk, sweat,
oils). It's fast and intensive. No greasy film remains
after cleaning. Grip Wash restores the hold to its
original texture. Works on ALL holds, every brand,
whether Urethane or Resin.
No Electricity
No Dishwashers
No Power Washing
No Muriatic Acid
Biodegradable, Space Saving, Time Saving

James PearsonとCedar Wrightによるクライミングのレッスンの様子。

■Sport Climbing Demo with James Pearson and Cedar Wright

Sport Climbing Demo with James Pearson and Cedar Wright from Maria Ly on Vimeo.

At the First Annual Yangshuo Climbing Festival in Yanghshuo, China, James Pearson and Cedar Wright gave a demonstration on proper sport climbing technique. This is a quick clip from that clinic.


■Adam Ondra
Peter Pan 5.14(8a+)

Nella giornata di domenica 3 gennaio 2010, a Cornalba, con una temperatura di -3 °C, Adam Ondra ha realizzato le prime salite onsight di Peter Pan (8a+) e Jedi (8b).
■Bouldering Agios Thomas

Bouldering Agios Thomas from Emmanouel Armoutakis on Vimeo.

New area me & a czech friend discovered 2 months ago.Many boulders.20 - 25 boulders developed so far, and counting.Plz RATE!!!

■Agios Thomas II

Agios Thomas II from Emmanouel Armoutakis on Vimeo.

Sequel of "Bouldering Agios Thomas part 1".Shot with my new HD camera.Problems almost 50 and still counting!!!

Neil Hartの未掲載映像を古い順にまとめて掲載。Fontainebleu在住のクライマー。

■January 2009, dose of font

January 2009, dose of font from neil hart on Vimeo.

Font dose, january 2009

■Feb Dose 2009.

Feb Dose 2009. from neil hart on Vimeo.

Feb 2009 dose of font, old footage

■March Dose of font 2009

March Dose of font 2009 from neil hart on Vimeo.

Last years footage, trying to get it all re uploaded

■April Dose of font 2009

April Dose of font 2009 from neil hart on Vimeo.

April 2009 dose of font, enjoy all.............

■May dose of Font 2009

May dose of Font 2009 from neil hart on Vimeo.

May 2009 dose of font, enjoy.........

■June Dose of font 2009

June Dose of font 2009 from neil hart on Vimeo.

As the weather heats up, I present the 10 most climbed boulders in in the forest, they are all ideal for the heat, plus I have added a few extra nice ones


■november 2009 dose of font

november 2009 dose of font from neil hart on Vimeo.

back by demand.

■November dose 2009

November dose 2009 from neil hart on Vimeo.

November 2009, dose of font


Oasis 7b+

Thriller 7c

Bagheera 7c

Nouvelle Vague 7b+

Cacuterie 6c+

L'Araignee 7a

Bleau's Art 7b

La Mandarine 7c+

Smash 7b

Le Toit dy Cul de Chien 6c+

■Jan 2010 dose of font

Jan 2010 dose of font from neil hart on Vimeo.

What can I say, the weather this month has been totally rubbish, snow for the first week, followed by a couple of weeks of rain, followed by more snow, we only managed to get a handfull of days climbing so not much footage this month.

The best bit of the month was today, the sun finally came out and I had a great day witha great bunch of friends.

Bring on Feb..................................

Aditional Camera, adam lincoln

Climbers, Me, Orc and Filip

■Feb Dose of Font 2010

Feb Dose of Font 2010 from neil hart on Vimeo.

More snow returned to font this month, followed by lots and lots of rain, the good days were good, but not enough of them...

Maybe March will be better.


■Last ever dose, march 2010

Last ever dose, march 2010 from neil hart on Vimeo.

I have been making my monthly videos for 18 months now, and thanks guys for all the comments, they have been great, but for now I will stop making them, I need to spent some time working on my own climbing..

Over the last few months I have found myself trying to find nice problems just for the monthly dose and not really putting any time into the harder routes I want to climb.

So for now I am going to concentrate on getting some big ticks....

Watch out for some special videos coming soon (I hope)

Go forth and crush my friends


■Font Bouldering......

Font Bouldering...... from neil hart on Vimeo.

Autum is almost over the winter is fast approaching, some nice boulders for you all to enjoy, some classic, some not so classic but def worth looking out for.......


■dynos in font part 1

dynos in font part 1 from neil hart on Vimeo.

Ok, so people know I like to dyno, I have a little thing going of trying to do all the dynos if font, there are currently about 110 official dynos above 7a

Here you have part one of the video with 40 quality dynos to try.


■Orc and gents weekend rampage

Orc and gents weekend rampage from neil hart on Vimeo.

Lightharted bit of fun, from the Orc and Gent, cracking weekend, see you soon

■TAWOCHE 2K10 dispatches #1

TAWOCHE 2K10 dispatches #1 from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

It’s 5:45 a.m. and Renan and I are up and throwing the last of the goods into barrels and duffels. What stays? What goes? Where are my shoes?

Our days in Kathmandu have been good…a productive and creative time to sink back into Nepali culture before getting on a plane to fly into the mountains. There is no doubt it is time to get out of the city and up into the hills. The flight to Lukla is a time-warp…you get on the plane surrounded by the amenities of modern life and 45 minutes later, after landing on a super sketchy runway that angles steeply uphill, find yourself surrounded only by trails, monasteries and deep gorges. No more car horns and pollution…it’s sick!

The motivation and creativity are running thick and Renan and I are busting at the seams to capture our trip and bring everyone back home along…it’s good to be here, but the extended tribe is never far from our thoughts.


■TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #2

TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #2 from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

The good news is the plane didn't crash...and there is no bad news.

The lights that dot the hillside outside our window go out one by one...it’s late in Namche. Our floor is less carpet space than duffels overflowing with camera and climbing gear.

Namche is the hub of almost all activity in the high Khumbu and yet now in the off season, it’s hard to find a shop open before noon. We’ve been here for two days, breathing the thinner air, adjusting to the cooler days and hanging out with the Tibetan traders below the village. Thamserku, Kwangde, and Kusum Kanguru tower above us in an impressive trifecta of ice and stone...conditions look good and we are stoked.

Tomorrow we’ll leave before the sun hits the village and wander up the Thame valley towards Tibet. Our friend Chhewang Nima will come along fort he ride.. You’ve never heard of him...but you should have considering he’s climbed Everest 17 times (yeah, you read that right)! His is just another example of Sherpa modesty and stoicism.

The next four days will take us over the Renjo La at roughly 17,400 ft., down to Gokyo, and finally to Phortse where we will stage for our attempt on Tawoche. Three friends, two cameras, one trail....epic.

■TAWOCHE 2K10 dispatches_#3

TAWOCHE 2K10 dispatches_#3 from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

Turn up the RADIO! Coming at you live from 17,000 ft. below the South Central (Gangsta) Buttress of Tawoche…
Renan and I are stuffed in a tent suffering from pounding altitude headaches. This after our 4,300 ft elevation jump yesterday on our final approach to BC comes as little surprise. We have never actually been accused of being the sharpest bowling balls on the shelf…so go figure.
Tawoche in all her glory rises above us another 5,000ft. With the view, comes the all to familiar rollercoaster of emotions that precede any alpine endeavor. Balancing fear and intuition, angst and energy, the action vs. the idea….they all flow into your already pounding cranial vault, leaving you exhausted before you’ve left the ground.
Since our last dispatch, we are one man, one camera, and one crucial lens down. Chhewang accompanied us to BC, but has since descended to Pangboche to wait. One 5D was tragically lost to a windstorm last night, as well the lens attached. Left with merely pieces, I am more than just a little bummed that the culprit time-lapse didn’t even make the cut for the dispatch.
Thanks for hanging with us…while we have no real comms up here, it means a lot to us to know someone might be listening.
c & r

■TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #4

TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #4 from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

Waking at 3:30 a.m. is the least of my concerns. We haven’t really been sleeping anyway. Our minds are filled with “What Ifs?” and scenarios that leave us wondering if we are struggling against basic fear, or fighting intuition.

Alpine climbing is a labor of love…it’s type 10 fun…the kind of fun that doesn’t have to be fun to be fun. In fact, most of the time spent in the actual activity is consumed by the minds’ pursuit of the base desire that has thrust you into the situation to begin with. In short, it is not something that makes a tremendous amount of sense.

Following your instincts isn’t really an option because your instincts tell you not to leave the ground. But conversely, not leaving the ground isn’t a viable option either…because fighting your desire to climb leaves you more miserable than the climbing itself.

We think about friends we’ve lost in the mountains and wonder if they were feeling the same thing the last morning they crawled from their respective tents. There is a massive question mark that hangs gloomily above the whole situation, and this morning is no different.

I light the incense and tuck it into the makeshift Stupa. Over my shoulders, pre-dawn light outlines the horizon…the dark figures of Makalu, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam. The last of the gear is shoved into the packs in silence as our labored breath rises into the light of our headlamps. The only thing left to do is start climbing. Greater fears are boiled down to specific distractions: Will there be water? Will the weather hold? Can we climb fast enough? And before we know it, the sun warms our backs and we are high above the valley floor on new terrain. The fear melts and melds with joy to create a hybrid emotion that feels almost tangible.

Like my friend Colin Moorehead says, “Climbing is the truth.”

c & r

■TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #5

TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #5 from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

“This is our decision to live fast and die young.
We've got the vision, now let's have some fun.
Yeah it's overwhelming, but what else can we do?
Get jobs in offices and wake up for the morning commute?”


As we told our sponsors before the climb, we’ve gone rogue like Sarah Palin. We are off the grid…

As we wake up battered and depleted, everything points us towards bailing. Only we are too hard headed to concede defeat, not realizing in fact that we are just too stupid to know when to call it. We haven’t had water in a day or so…but who needs hydration anyway? Talking with this degree of cottonmouth makes me sound like I am speaking in tongues…Renan looks at me with confused, puffy eyes. Are we really going up? I am as confused as him…the answer is a surprisingly emphatic ‘yes!’

I dodge rocks as Renan leads through some choss. He short fixes, I jug, dry heave, swing leads, dry heave more, and suck down hard candies like an addict locked in the throes of withdrawals. I can’t wait for the snow, for the water, but we still have hours to go before we get there…if we get there. But the unspoken common ground is that we are down to go up…

As are artists, we are locked in a constant struggle between what we want to capture, and the energy our bodies can afford to give. It’s an instinct to reach for the camera, but one that nearly always falls second to the tasks at hand. Often times, I criticize myself for not shooting more…for not nailing the perfect image…but then again, I am fighting just to move. As athletes, we are succeeding, but as creative individuals, we are flailing…it hurts.

There are multiple points in any given day, during any given hour, or on any given pitch, where I want more than anything to call it in. I want to yell up at Renan that I’ve had it. I can’t swallow, can’t talk…can barely breath, and all of it makes me want to descend. I know he feels the same because I can see it in his face. But our mouths stay shut, moving upwards steadily as a cohesive unit. No, it doesn’t make any sense…but we’ve never pretended to understand. Life is reduced to a consecutive series of familiar motions. Our arms begin to cramp due to lack of fluid. The glands in our mouths stop producing saliva. We are dried up…

All the variables in the equation equal out towards descent. But math was never my strong point…apparently Renan suffers from the same learning disabilities.

c & r


Orbayu by the Pou brothers

■Orbayu (English)

Orbayu (English) from Mike Call on Vimeo.

もう一つだけ。アメリカのトップクライマーの一人で、DVDにもよく出てくるポール・ロビンソンが Mt. EvansのBig Worm (V14) とHueco Tanksの Terremer (V15)を登ったときの映像とインタビュー。
作ったのはChuck Fryberger。

■Paul Robinson: Inside The Climbers Guild

Paul Robinson: Inside the Climbing Guild from Prana Living on Vimeo.

Paul Robinson started climbing at the age of 10. In the last decade, he has bouldered V15, and sent literally hundreds of problems in the V14 to V11 range. Not surprisingly, he has won or placed in nearly all of the international bouldering competitions he has entered. Paul is also an accomplished artist and painter majoring in Fine Arts at the University of Colorado, Boulder. He writes a lively blog about his accomplishments, art and his global travels promoting the climbing lifestyle.




"Everything really important is in front of us. Even in us!

Sometimes we have to go where the world ends just to understand it... "



This short "inspiration-movie" was edited from the footage, which was filmed randomly during the long trip of Petr and Eva to the northernmost parts of Europe. No script, no story etc... Just the strong northern inspiration, given me by the Northern lights :-)



Filmed, edited and directed by PETR PAVLÍČEK

PHOTOS FROM THIS TRIP HERE: http://www.bernartwood.cz/en/text/volani-severu