Uncut Footage of Anthony (Andy) Gullsten from Finland on The Hourglass, 8B that Stefan Rasmussen established a few years ago in Vastervik, Sweden. Andy repeated this along with Daniel Woods and Chris Webb-Parsons. Amazing line!
La Sportiva Athlete Paul Robinson went on a recon mission to a new area outside of Cape Town, South Africa and found some true gems. Follow along with Paul on some of his favorite problems and stay tuned for Part II when it really gets good
2011 Bouldering World Cup Women’s Overall Results
1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)
2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
3. Alex Puccio (USA)
4. Melissa Le Neve (FRA)
5. Mina Markovic (SLO)
6. Juliane Wurm (GER)
The IFSC Bouldering World Cup closed last Saturday with the event in Munich, Germany. The competition awarded the World Cup titles to the Austrians Anna Stöhr -- winner of the World Championship in Arco -- and to Kilian Fischhuber, although neither of them stepped up for the first place in Munich. In the women's field, the Slovenian Mina Markovic gains the gold medal with 3 tops 3 out of 4; the home athlete Juliane Wurm, galvanized by her public, sends one boulder more than Anna Stöhr and thus gets the silver medal, with Stohr in third place. The Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov, World Champion in Arco, shows again his great shape with four boulders climbed on first attempt; but most impressive is the fact that only Russian athletes are on the podium at the last bouldering competition of the year: Rustam Gelmanov is second, and Alexey Rubtsov is third.
Carlo Traversi grabs the 4th Ascent of Dave Graham's Suspension Of Disbelief V13 in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. One of the most classic and "full package" boulders in the world.
Wild Country sponsored athlete Ned Fehally has been British Bouldering Champion twice and is also the co-owner of Beastmaker who make some of the coolest training aids available. So when he tells you about training it's well worth a listen and this video contains a sort of 'how to' for those who haven't used a fingerboard before. You can see more about Ned here: wildcountry.co.uk/Community/Sponsees/NedFehally/ and see more about Beastmaker's products here: beastmaker.co.uk/ And the full text to go along with this video is available here: planetfear.com/articles/Fingerboard_Training__Beginner_1100.html
I had the pleasure of spending a week in Ten Sleep Wyoming with young up and coming climber Stefan Lavender. He brought his two mini-dogs Wentworth, and Nemo, and I brought along my pug Gus. I also brought along the new GH2 camera and the Noktor ƒ0.95 Lens to test them out. Still love the 5d, but I like the GH2 a lot too.
Mike is not only an amazing climber, but he is one of the nicest people you will ever meet. A true inspiration not only to me, but the whole climbing community in North Carolina.
Mike and I talked about shooting this project for eight months before finally getting around to it. It was worth the wait.
FA - Fear of Commitment Check out http://movementonstone.blogspot.com/ for more information about Mike. Special Thanks - Mike Stam Ryan Sigsbey
Music - Green Button Music http://greenbuttonmusic.com/
If, like me, you live in a city somewhere with little or no access to rock, then chances are you climb indoors somewhere. The question is, have you ever wondered how all those routes and boulder problems get created? Well, here's how...
I spent a day with four of The Castle Climbing Centre's route setters while they reset the Mezzanine area (the largest bouldering area within the Castle, and with the largest amount of problems; usually around 25-30+ ranging from V0- to V8/9). This video is a hugely condensed version of a very long and intense day squeezed down into a little over four minutes, but gives a good overview of the process of stripping, setting and testing a bouldering area.
Route Setters: Mike Langley Rich 'Tricky' Hudson Gaz Parry Alex Lemel
Music: The American Dollar - 'Age of Wonder' Pretty Lights - 'Hot Like Dimes'
Filmed, Edited & Produced by Ben Grubb.
Hardware: Canon EOS 5D-MkII Canon EOS 40D Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
27" Apple iMac
Software: Adobe Premiere Pro CS5 Adobe After Effects CS5
A great new video here of Talo Martin, Red Chili and Wild Country climber on the first ascent of Repudiado del Edén, 8b at Cavallers, a granite paradise situated close to the French border in norther Spain. Talo has done quite a few first ascents here but this is the hardest - yet he still has an 8C project to go...
Climbed:
Trench Warfare 6b
The Unnamed 7a
Apprentice Prow 7a+
Filthy Duke 7c
Jack the Nipper 7b+/c flash
Free Mason 7c flash
The Vision 7c flash
Bullet 7c flash
Everything Before 7c fa
Soul Crusher 7c+ flash
Revolver 8a+
The access to bouldering in Anston Stones is very fragile at the moment, with some crags out of use, so if you go over there please behave responsibly and if asked leave – the new magnesium limestone guide will explain all the issues
This is Dave Graham doing the first ascent of the BIG WORM in area A of Mt. Evans Colorado. this is also Nalle Hukkataival doing battle with Jade, V15 in R.M.N.P. !!!!!
New project by Sergey Shaferov in Guamka, Krasnodar territory. The project is named in honour of a birth at Sergey of the son. A project category preliminary 9а. Work on it will be will proceed at festival Guamka 2011.
Music:
Green Button Music
"As The Clock Turns"
"The Museum"
http://GreenButtonMusic.com
Random Rab
"K'Khana" (Featuring Rigzin)
"The Alienist"
http://MySpace.com/RandomRabMusic
As a climber sometimes our biggest job is to try to do justice to the amazing stories of our friends and peers. For this piece I worked with our crew at camp4collective.com to tell thenorthface.com athlete Jimmy Chin's jimmychin.com story as he in turn highlights modern day climbing in Yosemite for a National Geographic feature story.
It seemed so serendipitous to be 'on assignment' in a place that we all cut out teeth as adventurers and which also ended up becoming the namesake of our collective!
As always, thanks for tuning in! ~reo
Camp 4 Collective on vimeo: vimeo.com/camp4collective/videos
Shot on the Canon 5d, L series lenses, kesslercrane.com/ pocket dolly v2 and rodemic.com/ video mic pro.
Take an inside look at the thoughts and experiences of Chris Sharma as he explains why he chooses the Fusion Nano as his rope of choice and shares with us his passion for climbing and pushing the limits of the sport.
Wild Country and Red Chili climbers Ed and Sam Hamer talk about their climbing and their upcoming road trip while dispatching some Raven Tor classics... Ed and Sam are two bright prospects in UK climbing and as climbing brothers seem to get on remarkably well to make a strong team. Ed, (known at the Wild Country office as 'the future' for his remarkable ability) has been on the on the British Junior competition team for many years, climbed 8b+ when he was 17, has climbed several gritsone E7's (blaming Tom Randall for that!!) and bouldered up to 8a+. At 19 he's in the last year of representing the Uk at Junior level and after coming 10th in Edinburgh in May at the Uk round of the 2011 IFSC European Youth Cup (EYC) is hoping to build on that over the next couple of months whilst on his road trip. Sam's a strong all rounder who's was then picked for the British Junior climbing squad as well but in his own words "had a great time, but in the end realised that competitions were not for me and what I really wanted to do was climb on real rock! Which for me, is what it’s all about!!" Since then Sam, 22 been super active and has sent several E8's including My Piano and End of the Affair, on sighted up to E6 and has climbed 8b sports routes as well as bouldering up to 8a. We're super psyched they're on our team and you can read more about them and see more videos here: wildcountry.co.uk/community/sponsored-climbers/uk-sponsored-climbers/sam-hamer/ wildcountry.co.uk/community/sponsored-climbers/uk-sponsored-climbers/ed-hamer-uk/ Thanks to Adam Lincoln for the video....
Black Diamond athlete Sonnie Trotter rolled through Salt Lake City this past spring on his way to Indian Creek and stopped by BD HQ for a quick hello. He said he wanted make his own carabiner, so we took him downstairs to the carabiner manufacturing area real quick and ran him through most of the process: bending the rod stock, forging the biner, trimming the excess, heat treating it, running it through tumble and polish, installing the gate, and pull testing the finished biner.
Ballée, petite commune de 600 habitants, au coeur de la Mayenne, a été ce week-end, le théâtre d'une incroyable débauche d'énergie. Les finales des championnats de France espoir d'escalade sur bloc, n'en demandaient pas moins. Que ce soit dans les rangs de l'organisation, comme dans ceux des compétiteurs, chacun a vraiment donné passionnément, pour que cette édition demeure une vrai référence. Retour vidéo, sur les plus belles images de ce magnifique rendez-vous sportif.
Vivez la finale des championnats de France de Bloc, organisée par la FFME et "Couleur Caillou" à Millau. Les meilleurs grimpeurs français, sont au rendez-vous, et on note la présence dans cette dernière phase de la compétition, de trois membres de l'équipe de France de difficulté. Vont-ils bousculer les maîtres de la discipline ?
1. Caroline Ciavaldini (FRA)
1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
1. Jain Kim (KOR)
1. Mina Markovic (SLO)
5. Momoka Oda (JPN)
6. Katharina Posch (AUT)
6. Christine Schranz (AUT)
Men's Final Results:
1. Jakob Schubert (AUT)
2. Ramón Julian Puigblanque (ESP)
3. Magnus Midtboe (NOR)
4. Sachi Amma (JPN)
5. Cédric Lachat (SUI)
6. Romain Desgranges (FRA)
Chamonix accueille la 1ere étape de la Coupe du Monde d'escalade de Difficulté 2011. La météo n'est pas clémente, mais le public a répondu présent, et s'est massé en nombre au pied du mur érigé en plein centre ville. La finale propose aux 16 concurrents des voies à grimper à vue, d'un niveau 8c pour les hommes et 8b pour les dames.
Coupe du Monde d'escalade de vitesse, au pied du Mont Blanc. Les françaises Anouck Jaubert et Margot Heitz se classent respectivement 4eme et 6eme, et démontrent la progression de notre équipe nationale face aux spécialistes des pays de l'Est. Chez les hommes, le russe Sergey Abdrakhmanov crée la sensation en enlevant le record du monde, lors d'un run d'anthologie.
It has been seven years since the hardest climb in the bay area(The Impossible Traverse) has seen an ascent. Brian Hedrick, setter for Touchstone Gym and Bay Area superman sets out for the second ascent.
Men's results
1. Ramon Julian Puigblanque (ESP) Top
2. Jakob Schubert (AUT) 50-
3. Adam Ondra (CZE) 50-
4. Magnus Midtboe (NOR) 45-
5. Manuel Romain (FRA) 41-
6. Hyunbin Min (KOR) 39-
7. Evgeny Ovchinnikov (RUS) 25-
8. Evgney Zazulin (RUS) 23-
Women's Results
Women Lead - Final results
1. Angela Eiter (AUT) 53+
2. Kim Jain (KOR) 47-
3. Magdalena Röck (AUT) 47-
4. Johanna Ernst (AUT) 47-
5. Katharina Posch (AUT) 47-
6. Mina Markovic (SLO) 47-
7. Christine Schranz (AUT) 47-
8. Sasha Digiulian (USA) 47-
I grandi protagonisti della finale lead uomini ad Arco 2011:
Ramon Julian Puigblanque
Jakob Schubert
Adam Ondra
Magnus Midtboe
Manuel Romain
Hyunbin Min
Evgeny Ovchinnikov
Evgney Zazulin
Le grandi protagoniste della finale Lead ad Arco 2011: Angela Eiter, Jain Kim e Magdalena Röck.
Tutto il tracciato della finale e il difficilissimo passaggio, superato solo dalla campionessa.
Edu Marin on Qualification Second Route of Arco World Championchips 2011
Cristian Brenna, più volte sul podio di Coppa del Mondo
Patxi Usobiaga, vincitore di due Coppe del Mondo e di un Mondiale
François Legrand, vincitore di tre Mondiali e cinque Coppe del Mondo, ci parlano di quello che potrebbe succedere nei prossimi giorni di gare LEAD ad Arco 2011.
I favoriti per l'attesissima sfida maschile sono Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert e Ramòn Juliàn.
Arco 2011, venerdì, h. 13.15, poco prima dell'inizio della semifinale femminile lead incontriamo tra il pubblico Jakob Schubert, atteso protagonista per la gara di domani.
Ieri abbiamo incontrato in falesia ad Arco Angela Eiter, ventiseienne austriaca tra le favorite per la gara di oggi. Angela è stata Campionessa del Mondo Lead per due anni consecutivi, 2005 e 2007.
This film showcases some of the fine bouldering in the Midwest, mostly in Wisconsin. Old School classics and test pieces along with many first ascents are featured.
Areas Featured: Devil's Lake, Governor Dodge, Taylor's Falls and Rattlesnake Mound.
Climbers: Katie Schultz, Steve Schultz, Nic Oklobzija, Adam Remus, Jeremy Hemberger, Chris Esser, Aaron Kaeterhenry, Nacy Egger, and Ian Cotter-Brown.
Running time is about 33 minutes. Available at Rockwarriorfilms.com
This is a short climbing highlight documentary, where amputee climber Ronnie Dickson traverses the beautiful land in Hueco Tanks, TX for some extreme bouldering opportunities.
Daniel and I stayed with Christian Core and Stella Marchisio for a week at the beginning of this month. We got to eat amazing Italian dinners and climb on amazing granite in Varazze. Here is Daniel sending the stand of Nem 8a+, and me sending Messa delle streghe, 7c.
Black Diamond athlete Cedar Wright recently escaped the heat of the Colorado Front Range for the cool summer-sending temps of northern Wyoming's Ten Sleep Canyon. Ace lensman John Dickey was on the scene and put together the following video clip of Cedar that highlights the sweetness of Ten Sleep.
Here are some pieces of the attempts Zack Smith http://www.aspenexpeditions.com/i-Zack-Smith-103.html, Freddie Wilkinson http://www.thenamelesscreature.com/ and myself, Renan Ozturk, http://rockmonkeyart.com have put into climbing the 'Tooth Traverse' of the Ruth Gorge, AK.
There has been a lot going on surrounding our adventures: The 1st attempt http://vimeo.com/6038303 was heavily embarked upon only days after the memorial for the deaths of our close friends http://vimeo.com/5065432, the 2nd attempt ended with helping with body recoveries of other climbers in the gorge http://www.thenamelesscreature.com/2010/07/25/a-hard-freeze-away/ and the just before our proposed launch day this past spring I almost died in a skiing accident http://vimeo.com/21904471.
Beyond the allure of enchaining one of the most iconic (& untrodden) skylines in NA the Tooth Traverse has come to represent so much more than that to us. With my healing going well (http://vimeo.com/26531646) and the inspiration (and angst) greater than ever we are planning another attempt in the NEAR future.
I see the eventual story breaching some pretty heavy topics involved in alpine climbing: sponsored vs. non-sponsored expeditions, dealing with death and the effect tackling dangerous objectives has on friends/family.
At any rate here is a little window into our work in progress. ~reo
Music:
"Transit"
Philip Sheppard
http://philipsheppard.com
"Make It Good"
Fink
http://FinkWorld.co.uk
Additional Love and Support:
Inspire Award http://www.americanalpineclub.org/grants/g/5/Copp-Dash-Inspire-Award
Lyman-Spitzer Awardhttp://www.americanalpineclub.org/grants/g/7/Lyman-Spitzer-Cutting-Edge-Award
Paul Roderick http://www.talkeetnaair.com/
Colby Coombs http://www.climbalaska.org/
Photos for intro: Claudia Camila Lopez http://www.claudialopezphotography.com/ and Jonny Copp http://coppworks.com/
Motion Graphics support- Barry Thompson and Eric Bucy
Additional Cineflex Scenics: http://brainfarmcinema.com
Mad Dog- Dirt-bag Van Rentals
Tobey Carman- Weather Interpolation
The North Face http://thenorthface.com
Mountain Hardwear http://www.mountainhardwear.com/
Patagonia http://www.patagonia.com/us/home
Black Diamond http://bdel.com
La Sportiva http://www.sportiva.com/
Black Diamond athlete Renan Ozturk teamed up with Zack Smith and traveled to Alaska in late June 2009 to attempt a variety of climbing objectives, keeping their options open to the whims of weather, conditions and their stoke. Below is an excellent video the duo filmed during their ascents (a rarity in the world of alpine climbing where lightweight and speed typically take priority over documenting the adventure with video and photos). Check out Renan and Zack's trip report with words and photos here: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/trips/renan-ozturk-and-zach-smith-on-a-mission-in-alaskas-ruth-gorge
A standard day in the life of the recovery from a few broken vertebrae and a skull fracture. Even though I'm not technically cleared for psychical therapy yet, the time has finally come for some soul therapy. Besides my standard 5d shooting style with lots of http://kesslercrane.com pocket dolly motion control it was cool to test out the http://www.vio-pov.com/ POV.HD cam. It was fun to experiment with a fresh roll of duct tape, a bit of stiff steel wire and some thin pieces of PVC :)
cheers, ~reo
Music:
"And Then the Screen Turned Red"
Diagram Collective
http://DiagramCollective.com
"Trax"
Ki: Theory
http://KiTheory.com
"Time For the Ride"
Adam Parker
http://bit.ly/adam_MMC
Complete soundtracks, pictures and stories on : http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/events-0/2011/07/22/video-petzl-roctrip-mexico-2010?utm_source=Youtube&utm_medium=petzl-news&utm_campaign=mexico&utm_content=en
Never before has a Petzl RocTrip mixed together so much climbing and local culture one simmering pot. We spiced it up with a few special ingredients: passion, fun, and shared experiences. The Petzl RocTrip 2010 in Mexico welcomed people from all corners of the world to the unique climbing destinations of El Chonta et Las Peñas de Jilotepec, with a stop at the Aztec pyramides of Teotihuacán.