■Route Setting at the Boulder World Cup 2010 - what the competitors think
Interviews of all the top competitors about what they thought of the route setting at the Boulder World Cups 2010. I finished editing this clip late last night and was struck again what a inspiring and spirited person Chloé Graftiaux is when I learned today about her tragic accident. The reason for the video, "route setting" is trivial by now of course, but it gives a glimpse of what a great human being Chloé was.
In memoriam Chloé Graftiaux. July 18,1987 - August 21, 2010
そして、上のビデオの完成直前に亡くなったクロエ・グラフティオ･･･。ご冥福をお祈りします。
■Chloé Graftiaux, 2010 Bouldering World Cup - Interview before Munich
De passage à Annecy avant la dernière étape de la coupe du monde de bloc 2010, Chloé Graftiaux nous a accordé une petite interview. Entre sourires et souvenirs, elle revient avec nous sur sa grande forme et son très bon parcours dans la compétition.
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While in Annecy before the last competition of the 2010 bouldering world cup in Munich, Chloé Graftiaux gave us a short interview. Between smiles and memories, she told us about her recent great performances and her hopes for Munich.
- Music -
Artist : Sach
Track : Number 9
Extract from : The Sound of L.A Vol.2, Plug Research, 2006.
Ryan Silven on the first ascent of "Hate it or Love it" (V8) and Jon Glassberg on the first ascent of "Easy on the Eyes" (V9) in SUPER CHAOS!, Rocky Mountain National Park.
■Rocky Mountain National Park • Jon Glassberg • Full Chaos (V10)
Some bouldering in Bohuslan, Sweden. Problems include Cuerpo de Hombre, Även dalahästar har känslor, Spring Girl, and Stagger Lee. All problems but Stagger Lee are located at Häller.
Bouldering around Gothenburg Sweden. Problems include Enter the Dragon, Hammerstryke, Levande legender, High Voltage, Dub, Eftersändning, Kraftkalas, and more.
Bouldering on the islands outside of Gothenburg. Hönö, öckerö, and hälsö. Problems include den gamle och havet, vista del mar, jänkarproblemet, traktor, i am the walrus, and more.
EN: Guido Unterwurzacher - guido-rockside.blogspot.com - climbing multipitch route The Emperor's New Clothes 8b+ [Des Kaisers neue Kleider] - the hardest route from the Alpine Trilogy - which is located in Wilder Kaiser. Guido is the fourth climber who has done this route since 1994.
This clip was made for Guido's presentetion at climbing festival in Stallnalm. He choosed the music and all these cool titles.
Shot with Canon XH A1.
Whole film where staring also Ondra Benes will be available on Vimeo in fall 2010.
In case of jittery or snatchy playback, turn off HD.
CZ: Guido Unterwurzacher - guido-rockside.blogspot.com - leze vícedélkovou cestu Císařovy nové šaty - 8b+ [Des Kaisers neue Kleider]. Tato nejtěžší cesta z Alpské trilogie se nachází v pohoří Wilder Kaiser.
Guido je čtvrtý člověk od roku 1994, který vylezl tuto cestu.
Tento klip byl vytvořen pro Guidovu prezentaci o této cestě na lezeckém festivalu ve Stallnalmu. Sám si vybral hudbu a titulky.
Natočeno kamerou Canon XH A1.
Celý film, kde leze také Ondra Beneš bude volně k dispozici na podzim 2010.
In the summer of 2010 a group of us spent 2 and half months in one of the best bouldering spots in the world. So much climbing went down that unless your ICB you can't capture it all. I've compiled some footage and this is the video from the beggining of our trip. Wanna see some cool lines. Alex Savage, Les Warnock, Kenyon Smith, and Ian Cotter-Brown star in this short about doing whatever it takes to have fun.
The Road to the Nor'easter Powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a road trip through the Northeast showcasing the communities and personalities coming together to make the 2010 Nor'easter festival a unique celebration of Music, Sport, and Conservation September 24th-26th at Loon Mountain in Lincoln, NH.
This is the first of 5 video installments on The Road to the Nor'easter that we'll be release on a weekly basis, so stay tuned, and get your tickets now at www.noreaster.ems.com!
■The Road to the Nor'easter with Sonnie Trotter & Russ Clune
The Road to the Nor'easter continues with Black Diamond athlete "Sunshine" Sonnie Trotter of Squamish British Columbia visiting the classic cliffs of the Shawangunks in the Mohonk Preserve in New Paltz, NY.
The Nor'easter powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a three festival of Sports, Music and Conservation on Sept 24-26th 2010 at Loon Mountain in Lincoln, NH. Festival info, main stage line up and tickets are on sale now www.noreaster.ems.com.
Music courtesy of Nor'easter Main Stage artists Alberta Cross, http://albertacross.net/
My buddy Dave Graham and I got together last week. Our mission was to throw a little hype-you-up-video together for the Nor’easter event. Dave and I have known each other for YEARS and he is truly one of the most fascinating people I know, but aside from projecting hard routes together there is a mean intent of going to work. It is always a pleasure to have an actual task other than climbing to tackle with him. We threw this video together in an afternoon + evening… It’s no Big Up or Camp 4 Collective style but I would say it doesn’t suck for our time of execution… ENJOY!
The Road to the Nor'easter continues. Follow Marmot pro athlete Abbey Smith jets North out of New York City From the heart of Brooklyn to the cliffs of the Gunks for some classic bouldering in the Trapps. Music by !!! (chk chk chk) chkchkchk.net/
■The Road to the Nor'easter 2010: Stencil Art with Joe Iurato
The 2010 Road to the Nor'easter Powered by Eastern Mountain Sports continues with our friend and acclaimed stencil artist Joe Iurato at Brooklyn Boulders. Joe works with EMS athlete Joe Kinder on an interpretation of the Main Stage at the 2008 Nor'easter.
The Road to the Nor'easter Powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a road trip through the Northeast showcasing the communities and personalities coming together to make the 2010 Nor'easter festival a unique celebration of Music, Sport, and Conservation September 24th-26th at Loon Mountain in Lincoln, NH. Tickets on sale now: www.noreasterems.com
Music by Javelin: http://www.myspace.com/hotjamzofjavelin
■The Back Road to the NOR'EASTER 2010: Day 1, En Route to New England
6.10.2010
Aimee and her film crew head to New England to film promo videos for the NOR'EASTER 2010 powered by Eastern Mountain Sports. Visit www.noreaster.ems.com for more info!
Putting the "v" in vlog:
Film - Sebastian Carisio, Jason Prezant
Editing - Sebastian Carisio
■The Back Road to the NOR'EASTER 2010: Day 2, Joe Kinder and North Conway, NH
6.11.2010
Aimee and her film crew arrive at North Conway, NH to film and talk with Joe Kinder for the NOR'EASTER 2010 powered by Eastern Mountain Sports. Visit www.noreaster.ems.com for more info!
Putting the "v" in vlog:
Film - Sebastian Carisio, Jason Prezant
Editing - Sebastian Carisio
■The Back Road to the NOR'EASTER 2010: Day 2, Jason Danforth with the Details
6.12.2010
Aimee gets the details from Jason Danforth of NE2C about the NOR'EASTER 2010 powered by Eastern Mountain Sports. Visit www.noreaster.ems.com for more info!
Putting the "v" in vlog:
Film - Sebastian Carisio, Jason Prezant
Editing - Sebastian Carisio
■The Road to the Nor'easter: Joe Kinder in New Hampshire
The 2010 Road to the Nor'easter ends in New Hampshire with Eastern Mountain Sports athlete Joe Kinder joined by Keith Moon and Charlie Townsend. Music by Javelin: http://www.myspace.com/hotjamzofjavelin
The Nor'easter powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a 3 day festival of Music, Sport and Conservation September 24th-26th at Loon Mountain in Lincoln, NH. Tickets for the 2010 Nor'easter are on sale now at www.noreasterstore.com.
This summer I had the pleasure of giving a presentation at the Squamish Mountain Film Festival and arrived a day early to do some shooting with the perhaps overly ambitious idea of presenting an original climbing film that I shot and cut in a day. It turned out to be a lot of work and I literally didn't sleep for a night to get this ready for the show, but everyone was super psyched to see a slice of their home area presented to them in near real time. This movie features Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, Tommy Caldwell, and Hazel Findlay crushing Squamish's world class stone!!! Hope you enjoy it!!!
While shooting my Squamish in a Day video, Jason Kruk got his knee stuck in a 5.11 offwidth called "Boogie 'til You Puke." Luckily Andrew Burr was there shooting stills while I shot video and switched his 5d to video mode to capture what is perhaps the most horrific and hilarious climbing experience I have ever witnessed first hand. By this end of this short movie, you should understand why the climb is now officially renamed "Boogie 'til You Poop!"
The route done by Kinga in this film is a classical 8b+ in polish limestone. Very technical with small crimps. "The Turing Test" is located in Dolina Bedkowska near Cracow. Kinga is the first woman who has done this route.
This short movie is made from two climbing shots. The one from the right side is the original ascent.
The song used in this film is performed by Antonina Krzyszton and is titled Perlowa Lodz.
Less than 2 months after his knee operation Bione comes back seriously on the boulders road.
Nothing better to do his reeducation then a trip in French Vosges where small paradisiac sectors shelter luxurious problems. ‘’An other Trip’’ redraws this stay rich in discoveries, openings, FA, new sectors, projects...
To discover for the first time in video the RDM, sectors of the extreme boulders of future, any new jewels of the Grand jumeau and its tens of problemss to be opened among which ones seem sublime and Pierre de la Roche with its nice landscapes.
To see: boulders from 3 + to 7B : "Plat du jour", 3 + WFA; "Rang de nions", 6A WFA; "Six, c’est abusé", 6A + FA; "Platapon", 7A FA; " Les 4 fantastiques", 7A; "Le temps des cerises", 7B FA. Find a bonus of attempts in the project " Cheval d’arçon", 7hard and "A.V.C", 7B +. Sure quotations still remain to confirm.
Certainly the Happyclimb Production's video the most succeeded.
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Moins de 2 mois après son opération au genou Bione reprend sérieusement le chemin des blocs.
Rien de mieux pour faire sa ré-éducation qu’un petit trip dans les Vosges où de petits secteurs paradisiaques abritent des passages somptueux.
An other Trip retrace ce séjour riche en découvertes, ouvertures, FA, nouveaux secteurs, projets, ...
A découvrir pour la première fois en vidéo le RDM, le secteurs des blocs extrêmes du futur, les tous nouveaux joyaux du Grand Jumeau et ses dizaines de passages à ouvrir dont certains semblent sublimes et la Pierre de la Roche avec son cadre unique.
A voir : des blocs du 3+ au 7B, ‘‘Plat du jour’’, 3+ WFA; ‘‘Rang de nions’’, 6A WFA; ‘‘Six, c’est abusé’’, 6A+ FA; ‘‘Platapon’’, 7A FA; ‘‘Les 4 fantastiques’’, 7A; ‘’Le temps des cerises’’, 7B FA et en bonus des essais dans le projet ‘‘Cheval d’arçon’’, 7dur et l’exigent ‘‘A.V.C.’’, 7B+. Certaine cotations restent encore à confirmer.
Certainement la vidéo la plus aboutie d’Happyclimb Production.
Car il n'y a pas que Bleau, Albarracin, Hueco, Rock Land, ... mais qu'il y a aussi le Grand Jumeau, Happyclimb Production vous offre un premier Extra à "Another Trip" avec la FA de "Cheval d'arçon" proposé à 7B+.
Dans ce nouvel opus Bleausard retrouvez quelques uns des blocs réalisés le week-end du 1er Mai : - Rendez-vous, 7B (et non 7C comme vu dans la vidéo) - Los Guerilleros, 7B - Le Sphinx, 7A.
Hans a réalisé la FA de "A.V.C" au HAB fin Avril 2010. "A.V.C." est l’une des lignes absolument majeures du HAB. A croiter d’urgence... La cotation est proposée à 7B+, elle reste à confirmer.
Ca y est, les beaux jours reviennent et les premières croix avec. Bione fait son retour à Fouchon et réalise la FA de ‟Wilkinson” proposé au environ du 7B, mais cela reste bien sûr à confirmer. ‟Wilkinson”c’est 4 lames qui déchirent...
Chris Sharma on the first ascent of Dreamcatcher, 5.14d/9a. Excerpt from Dosage Volume 4, full-length DVD available at www.bigUPproductions.com
■2nd ascent
Sean McColl - Dreamcatcher
This is a video of Sean McColl doing Dreamcatcher. It was filmed and edited by JJ Mah a week after Sean sent it! We couldn't snag HD cameras so unfortunately 480 is going to be the highest it'll go.
this is our first film made with the canon 7d, having upgraded from the hv20. I still consider it all practice for the real film though, which may one day actually happen.
trailer from the new worklessclimbmore dvd
Featuring: Dani Andrada, Chris Sharma, Mariona Marti
Siurana-Margalef-Santalinya-Rodellar-Mallorca-Canaria...
More infos on www.triaylaurent.com
During th Petzl Roctrip at Kalymnos, Dave Graham onsighted the first Women Ultimate Rotu (8b)...
This beautifull line was a bit wet the first day, so th girls climbed an other route. But after a couple days of North wind, the route was dry and Dave onsigheted the first ascent!
After the Roc Trip at the Gunks, Tony Lamiche went to Rumney with friends, and he sent "The Fly", one of the hardest route in the world (9a / 5.14d).
It took him three days to link it !!
Men's Lead Results:
1. Ramon Julian Puigblanque (Spain)
2. Jakob Schubert (Austria)
3. Adam Ondra (Czech Republic)
4. Sachi Amma (Japan)
5. Romain Desgranges (France)
Women's Lead Results:
1. Jain Jim (Korea)
2. Katharina Posch (Austria)
3. Angela Eiter (Austria)
4. Alexandra Eyer (Switzerland)
5. Christine Schranz (Austria)
The town of Arco in the Sarca Valley, Italy has been hosting the 2010 IFSC Rock Master World Championships pre-event.
Founded in 1987 the Rock Masters has enjoyed 22 years of uninterrupted climbing competition, and has since its existence been considered ‘ahead of its time,' as far as climbing competitions go.
In this video we see Sachi Amma and Adam Ondra, then Ramon Julian Puigblanque and Jakob Schubert all climb the same route in the men's finals.
This is a difficulty competition and Ramon wins, Jakob is second, Ondra third and Sachi is fourth.
Ramon is perhaps the slowest climber of them all, but seems to be able to rest in positions the others can't. Jakob finds the best rest - a reasonable knee-bar on the large yellow volume and Ondra just climbs supremely fast without resting at all!
Footage captured by Lukasz Warzecha of LW Images and edited by planetFear's Dave MacFarlane from the Arco Rock Masters Climbing Championships 2010.
■Arco Rockmaster 2010 - World Championship Pre-event
The best images about Rockmaster 2010 World Championship Pre-event. Bouldering, speed, team speed, duel and lead finals. Protagonists: Ramón Julian Puigblanque, Jain Kim, Cédric Lachat, Anna Stöhr, Libor Hroza, Cuilian He, Adam Ondra and Katharina Posch.
■Sean Maccoll vs Adam Ondra - Duel Final - Rock Master 2010
■Romain Desgranges vs Jakob Schubert - Duel - Rock Master 2010
■Alexandra Eyer vs Alizée DUFRAISSE - Duel - Rock Master 2010
■Ramón Julian Puigblanque - Lead Final, Rock Master 2010
■Adam Ondra - Lead Final, Rock Master 2010
■Jacob Schubert - Lead Final Men, Rock Master 2010
■Adam Ondra - Lead Semifinal Men - Rock Master 2010
■Chris Sharma - Lead Semifinal Men - Rock Master 2010
■Chris Sharma - Qualification Lead - Rock Master 2010
■Alizeè Dufraisse, Julian Puigblanque Ramón - Qualification Lead - Rock Master 2010
■Cedric Lachat - Lead Qualification - Rock Master 2010
■Patxi Usobiaga - Qualification Lead - Rock Master 2010
■Jain Kim vs Katharina Poch - Duel Final - Rock Master 2010
■Jain Kim - Lead Final, Rock Master 2010
■Katharina Poch - Lead Final, Rock Master 2010
■Angela Eiter - Lead Final, Rock Master 2010
■Maja Vidmar - Qualification Lead - Rock Master 2010
■Angela Eiter - Qualification Lead - Rock Master 2010
■Sara Avoscan - Qualification Lead - Rock Master 2010
■Boulder Final Men - Rock Master 2010
■Boulder Semifinal Men - Rock Master 2010
■Men Bouldering Qualification - Rock Master 2010
■Boulder Final Women - Rock Master 2010
■Boulder Semifinal Women - Rock Master 2010
■Women Bouldering Qualification - Rock Master 2010
Roger Schäli on his first first route in that grade. We could only film the lower but more interesting part because the upper part was way to wet for climbing. Roger did this classic swiss route back in 2003 redpoint. It's one of the famous climbs in switzerland with just a few repeats.
Winter 2010. A few locals wrestling with the pebbles. Triage, Hipster, Orange Aid, Cool Aid;Flock Hill Electric Solider Porygon, Black Arete Project, Hammerhead;Teapot Face Project, Rad steep Project; Flock Hill Annie Oakley;Wuthering Heights Hyperspace 500 Project;Dry Valley
A little bit of training leading into the young guns sending some proud modern bouldering classics. James Morris sending Hyperspace 500 and Chaos out of Order. Zac Orme sending his Masterpiece Liquidus Line.
Jacinda Hunter, a nurse and mother of four (two boys and two girls), juggles work and parenthood with bouldering V11 and redpointing 14b. She says, “usually when I make up my mind to do something, I get it done.” Jacinda feels her biggest challenge is being a good parent and good example for her kids. “It’s hard to find time to provide opportunities for their interests and growth, and still have time to indulge in my own passions like climbing.” Jacinda and her husband, Mike, don’t have a TV-instead, the whole family goes on climbing trips together. Breaking the Law, her hardest route, was a long, cold winter project with the family. Her latest First Ascent "Fantasy Island" (5.14b) is in American Fork Canyon, Utah. For more visit http://bit.ly/JCHunter
Try Harder is a documentary film that examines the philosophy of effort. That being said, there is a strong emphasis on incredible human feats and comedy. This film is by the athletes, for the athletes and the industry.
This film is NON-PROFIT, that is, all the proceeds will go to the athletes in the film.
Donations are welcome and sponsorship is also welcome. Please contact Try Hard, Ltd. at: noah@tryhardclimbers.com for more information on sponsorship. To donate to this film, and therefore directly to the athletes in this film, please send a check payable to Try Hard, Ltd. of any amount to:
Try Hard, Ltd.
1506 Deseret Dr.
Minden, NV 89423
(Please give a name or business to list in credits, or anonymous.)
Pietro Dal Pra interviews the boulder champion Kilian Fischhuber at La Sportiva factory in Ziano, Val di Fiemme (TN).
■La Sportiva ambassadors part 2: video interview to Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra interviewed by Pietro Dal Pra during the first atlethes day at La Sportiva headquarter in Ziano di Fiemme (TN).
■La Sportiva ambassador's part 3: Angela Eiter
Angela Eiter, La Sportiva ambassador, interviewed by Pietro Dal Pra during the first atlethes day.
■La Sportiva ambassador's part 4 - The Pou Brothers coming soon
Iker and Eneko Pou: official interview's trailer. The complete interview by Pietro dal Pra is coming...soon!
Check www.lasportiva.com/magazine for all the la sportiva ambassadors' interviews.
■La Sportiva ambassadors part 5: Jerome Meyer
Time to know better the climber Jerome Meyer, member of La Sportiva's ambassadors team
■Eneko & Iker Pou double interview!
Pietro Dal Pra make some funny question to the Pou brothers! Climbing, lifestile and more on this double interview by La Sportiva!
■La sportiva ambassadors part 7: Cody Roth
Interview with Cody Roth, member of La Sportiva ambassadors.
The Bouldering World Cup 2010 stayed gripping up to the last problem! Munich's '72 Olympic stadium provided a worthy location for the final event. Of all the potential winners, only Chloé Graftiaux dropped the ball and didn't make it to the finals. In the finals Akiyo Noguchi won by the narrowest margin possible - Anna Stöhr needed one more try for the only problem the girls could climb in the finals.
Route setting was very "russian style" as many competitors put it, meaning rather rock like moves on bad holds, what tends to favor either, well, russians or ... rock climbers. Since Adam Ondra is the best rock climber in the world right now It was no surprise than that he won the event and with it the overall Boulder World Cup 2010.
■Boulder World Cup Finals Munich 2010: Boulder 1 and 2
www.bergleben.de/klettern - beim Boulder-Weltcup in München fiel die Entscheidung um den Sieg im Gesamtklassement. Hier seht ihr den Clip zu den ersten beiden Problemen im Finale.
Here ist the clip to last stage of the boulder world cup 2010 in munich (germany) - join it...
See and read more on out website www.bergleben.de/klettern!
■Boulder World Cup Munich 2010: Final Boulder No. 3 and 4
www.bergleben.de/klettern -
Beim Boulder-Weltcup in München fiel die Entscheidung an den letzten beiden Problemen. Schaut euch den Clip an!
The last two boulders brought the decision who would win the boulder world cup 2010.
■Chloé Graftiaux - 2010 Bouldering world cup, final stage in Munich
Chloé Graftiaux told us about her 2010 bouldering world cup, during the last stage in Munich.
Congratulations Chloé for these excellent performances, and thank you to made us dream.
Chloé Graftiaux revient sur son parcours durant de la coupe du monde de bloc 2010 lors de la dernière étape à Munich.
Toute nos félicitations pour ces excellentes performances Chloé, et merci de nous avoir fait rêver.
■Chloé Graftiaux, 2010 Bouldering World Cup - Interview before Munich
De passage à Annecy avant la dernière étape de la coupe du monde de bloc 2010, Chloé Graftiaux nous a accordé une petite interview. Entre sourires et souvenirs, elle revient avec nous sur sa grande forme et son très bon parcours dans la compétition.
--
While in Annecy before the last competition of the 2010 bouldering world cup in Munich, Chloé Graftiaux gave us a short interview. Between smiles and memories, she told us about her recent great performances and her hopes for Munich.
- Music -
Artist : Sach
Track : Number 9
Extract from : The Sound of L.A Vol.2, Plug Research, 2006.
Patxi Usobiaga climbing the final route during the Chamonix World Cup 2010 (July 12th and 13th). The male podium was: 1. Ramon Julian 2. Patxi Usobiaga 3. Jorg Verhoeven
■IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2010
Highlight footage from the IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France 2010. Check out more films at http://www.planetFear.com
■Highlights of the IFSC WC in Chamonix
Shots from the Lead &Speed WC in Chamonix, July 2010
Jon Glassberg and Carlo Traversi discover a secret book that helps them learn a long forgotten climbing move, the pogo. Also known as the Moon Kick. Enjoy the show!
Jon Glassberg and Carlo Traversi discover a secret book that helps them learn a long forgotten climbing move, the pogo.
Carlo meets up with his scientist buddies and they work hard to learn the forgotten moves. Jonny Hork, Nic Sherman, and Carlo dive deep into the science behind the move...
Jon Glassberg and Carlo Traversi discover a secret book that helps them learn a long forgotten climbing move, the pogo.
Carlo meets up with his scientist buddies and they work hard to learn the forgotten moves. Jonny Hork and Nic Sherman help Carlo learn the science behind the move.
Carlo learns the movement and applies it to a "Super Pogo Boulder Problem" that he sets. It works.
Footage from Chuck Fryberger's "Core" of Nalle Hukkataival, Chuck Fryberger, and Kevin Jorgeson trying "Airstar" (V13) in Rocklands, South Africa.
