Wild Country sponsored climber, the Italian Michele Caminati has made the first repeat of 'Screaming Dream' (UK grade E7 7A) as a highball boulder problem above pads.
The route was first climbed by Mark Leach in 1987 and as a testament to how hard the climbing is the route has only seen 5 ascents in 25 years. All of these were led and those most recently used pre-placed and pre-clipped Friends above the crux, in effect creating a top rope to protect the climber.
However, Michele’s solo highball / ascent ascent now opens up the line to those looking for an excellent highball Font 8a boulder problem!
His ascent is perhaps even more impressive coming only two days after a pretty terrifying fall from 8 metres on the 2nd crux of New Statesman E8 7a, at Ilkley.
See more about Michele here:
ラベル: Michele Caminati