Arco Rock Legends 2012

Arco Rock Legends - Salewa Rock Award 2012 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

La presentazione dei nominati al Salewa Rock Award 2012 nella serata di Arco Rock Legends del 31/08/2012 al Casinò di Arco. Protagonisti Sasha DiGiulian (vincitrice del Salewa Rock Award), Iker Pou, Adam Ondra, Dave Graham e Daniel Woods.
Concept Editing: Vinicio Stefanello (PlanetMountain - Mountain Network srl) / Francesco Mansutti (Studio Due)
Produzione: ASD Arrampicata Sportiva Arco

Arco Rock Legends - La Sportiva Competition Award 2012 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

La presentazione dei nominati al La Sportiva Competition Award 2012 nella serata di Arco Rock Legends del 31/08/2012 al Casinò di Arco. Protagonisti Anna Stöhr (vincitrice del La Sportiva Competition Award), Kilian Fischhuber, Jacob Schubert.
Concept Editing: Vinicio Stefanello (PlanetMountain - Mountain Network srl) / Francesco Mansutti (Studio Due)
Produzione: ASD Arrampicata Sportiva Arco

Stefan Glowacz - Arco Rock Legends Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil 2012 from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

La presentazione di Stefan Glowac a cui è stato assegnato il Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil 2012 nella serata di Arco Rock Legends del 31/08/2012 al Casinò di Arco.
Concept Editing: Vinicio Stefanello (PlanetMountain - Mountain Network srl) / Francesco Mansutti (Studio Due)
Produzione: ASD Arrampicata Sportiva Arco

Melloblocco 2012 : Spirit of (Official video 2012)

New official video MELLOBLOCCO 2012. Special Guest: Anna Stor, Kilian Fischhuber, Philippe Ribiere, Alexey Rubstav, Gabriele Moroni, James Person, Nalle Hukkataival, Chris Sharma, Barbara Zangerl, Adam Ondra, Anthony Gullsten, Cody Roth, Daila Ojeda, Michele Caminati, Sasha DiGiulian, Shauna Coxsey, Alexandra Balakileva
http://www.melloblocco.it

Bouldering World Cup 2012: Munich

World Cup Results: Munich Round

Boulder Men
1 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov 1986 RUS 4t10 4b9
2 Sean McColl 1987 CAN 4t10 4b10
3 Jakob Schubert 1990 AUT 3t10 4b17
4 Rustam Gelmanov 1987 RUS 3t11 3b11
5 Rei Sugimoto 1991 JPN 2t5 2b3
6 Stewart Watson 1984 GBR 2t8 3b9

Boulder Women
1 Akiyo Noguchi 1989 JPN 4t4 4b4
2 Anna Stöhr 1988 AUT 4t5 4b5
3 Juliane Wurm 1990 GER 4t6 4b5
4 Melissa Le Neve 1989 FRA 4t10 4b6
5 Anna Gallyamova 1986 RUS 4t11 4b9
6 Mélanie Sandoz 1987 FRA 0t 4b9

Rustam Gelmanov and Anna Stöhr are the 2012 Boulder World Cup winners For Rustam a fourth place was enough because Kilian Fischhuber was already eliminated in Saturday's qualifying. (a tiny mistake in the first problem as you can see in the video) The day's victory in Munich fell to the flawlessly climbing Akiyo Noguchi from Japan and Dmitrii Sharafutdinov from Russia, who is suddenly in world-championship-shape again. Very pleasing from a German perspective: Juliane Wurm climbed to the podium, taking only 3 tries more than Akiyo and one more than Anna. In the men Sean McColl from Canada and Jakob Schubert from Austria finished second and third.

Perfect conditions in the final rounds and the biggest athletes participation attracted a huge audience response. 65 men and 51 women from 28 nations went to the start. A total of around 15,000 people wanted to see their performances. They were not disappointed: the finale at around 20 degrees and light winds prevailed perfect conditions for bouldering.

Boulder World Cup in Munich 2012 - Men from bergleben.de on Vimeo.

http://www.bergleben.de/klettern - In the great final of the boulder world cup 2012 in munich Dmitrii Sharafutdinov won ahead of the strong Canadian Sean McColl and Jakob Schubert from Austria. The Russian won also last year in Munich and topped out all four final boulders. Only one try more for reaching the four bonus holds was responsible for McColls lost - he was not able to climb only one boulder in the whole competition. Kilian Fischhuber didn´t reach the semifinal so Rustam Gelmanov won the Overall Boulder World Cup 2012 ahead of the two austrian climbers Fischhuber and Schubert. The germans managed to reach semifinal with three athletes (Baumann, Danker, Conrad) and finished on the places 10, 13 & 18.

See the girls competition here: https://vimeo.com/48369308

Boulder World Cup Finals 2012 in Munich - Women from bergleben.de on Vimeo.

http://www.bergleben.de/klettern/1241--weltcup_bouldern.html - Akiyo Noguchi won the world cup final in munich ahead of Anna Stöhr and Juliane Wurm. Anna won the 2012 World Cup, it´s her third win after 2008 and 2011. Akiyo won the series 2009 and 2010. She flashed all four final boulder problems while Anna needed one try more and Juliane two tries. 6000 visitors in the olympic park in munich saw an epic competition. This our clip of the event.

music credits:
Flight Facilities - Crave You (Adventure Club Dubstep Remix)
Klangkarussell - Sonnentanz
Zack Hemsey - Mind Heist

World Cup Results: Overall Results for 2012

Men
1. Rustam Gelmanov RUS 400.00
2. Kilian Fischhuber AUT 354.00
3. Jakob Schubert AUT 318.00
4. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 304.00
5. Sean McColl CAN 281.00
6. Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA 261.00
7. Rei SUGIMOTO JPN 204.00
8. Thomas Caleyron FRA 158.00
9. Jonas Baumann GER 140.00
10. Jernej Kruder SLO 126.00
11. Jorg Verhoeven NED 118.00
12. Tsukuru Hori JPN 112.00
13. Lukas Ennemoser AUT 107.00
14. Alexey Rubtsov RUS 104.00
15. Stewart Watson GBR 100.00
16. Stefan Danker GER 91.00
17. Klemen Becan SLO 90.00
18. Loïc Gaidioz FRA 84.00
19. Jeremy Bonder FRA 78.00
20. Jan Hojer GER 75.00

Women
1. Anna Stöhr AUT 425.00
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 394.00
3. Shauna Coxsey GBR 350.00
4. Mina Markovic SLO 304.00
5. Alex Puccio USA 245.00
6. Melissa Le Neve FRA 238.00
Juliane Wurm GER 238.00
8. Mélanie Sandoz FRA 191.00
9. Momoka ODA JPN 189.00
10. Jain Kim KOR 171.00
11. Katharina Saurwein AUT 162.00
12. Anne-Laure Chevrier FRA 145.00
13. Anna Gallyamova RUS 137.00
14. Monika Retschy GER 127.00
15. Cecile AVEZOU FRA 109.00
16. Olga Iakovleva RUS 89.00
17. Tatiana Shemulinkina RUS 82.00
18. Vera Zijlstra NED 59.00
Joint 19. Yana Chereshneva RUS 58.00
Joint 19. Mina Leslie-Wujastyk GBR 58.00

Bouldering World Cup 2012: Vail

Women
1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)
2. Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
3. Juliane Wurm (GER)
4. Alex Johnson (USA)
5. Alex Puccio (USA)
6. Mélanie Sandoz (FRA)

Men
1. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT)
2. Sean McColl (CAN)
3. Jan Hojer (GER)
4. Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA)
5. Jakob Schubert (AUT)
6. Rei Sugimoto (JPN)

A couple in their lives, a couple on the podium: Anna and Kilian played once again their gold symphony in Vail, Colorado (USA), fifth event of the season. Shauna Coxsey (GBR) and Sean McColl (CAN) - silver, Juliane Wurm (GER) and Jan Hojer (GER) - bronze, could not prevail on the Austrian super-couple. The boulder World Cup finals will take place in Munich, on August 25 and 26.

2012 Vail Bouldering World Cup from Josh Larson on Vimeo.

This is a short video of my sends and falls at the 2012 World Cup Teva Mountain Games. I made semifinals (personal goal) placed 20th overall and 5th among the US Men that represented USA.
I am looking forward to this years training for next years improvement!

-- Live your dream

2012 Teva Mountain Games - Louder Than 11 from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.

Louder Than 11 spent the weekend in Vail, Colorado for the 2012 Summer Teva Mountain Games. Follow the LT11 crew around the games and soak in the high altitude adventure of North America's largest gathering of outdoor enthusiasts. Kayaking, biking, dog jumps and slacklining made for an unforgettable weekend of non stop Teva Mountain Games action!

Stay tuned for exclusive rock climbing footage from the IFSC bouldering World Cup.

http://www.tevamountaingames.com/summer

Produced by Louder Than Eleven - http://lt11.com/

Bouldering World Cup 2012: Innsbruck

Women’s Final Results:
1. Anna Stöhr (Austria)
2. Shawna Coxsey (Great Britain)
3. Melissa Le Neve (France)
4. Alex Puccio (USA)
5. Katharina Saurwein (Austria)
6. Jain Kim (Korea)

Men’s Final Results:
1. Killian Fischhuber (Austria)
2. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
3. Sean McColl (Canada)
4. Jakob Schubert (Austria)
5. Edward Feehally (Great Britain)
6. Stewart Watson (Great Britain)

The Austrian iron couple, Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber, got a awesome victory in front of their crowd in Innsbruck. In an enthusiastic sold out Marketplatz, the podium was completed by Shauna Coxsey (GBR) and Melissa Le Neve (FRA), and, in the men, by Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) and Sean McColl (CAN). As a result of this success, Anna Stohr takes the lead (2 points on Noguchi) in the World Cup Ranking, while Rustam Gelmanov is solidly at the top of the men's, 100 points ahead of Fischhuber.

Bouldering World Cup 2012: Log-Dragomer, Slovenia

Men's results
1. Rustam Gelmanov
2. Kilian Fischhuber
3. Thomas Tauporn
4. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov
5. Guillaume Glairon Mondet
6. Jakob Schuber

Women's results
1. Mina Markovic
2. Shauna Coxsey
3. Anna Stöhr
4. Momoka Oda
5. Akiyo Noguchi
6. Melissa Le Neve

Mina Markovic (SLO) and Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) are the winners of the second event of the 2012 IFSC Bouldering World Cup.
In the women, Mina confirms her huge talent, after her fantastic 2011 season, when she got the IFSC Lead World Cup (but she also won one event in the Bouldering World Cup in Munich). In Log Dragomer, she wins ahead of Shauna Coxsey (GBR) and Anna Stöhr (AUT). In the men, Rustam, bronze at the 2011 Arco World Championship, comes back to gold after three years (Wien 2009). Silver to Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and bronze to Thomas Tauporn (GER).

Mina Markovic - BWC Log 2012 Winner from Žiga Janež on Vimeo.

Every time Mina Markovic competes she impresses more and more. She won Log-Dragomer bouldering stage with all four tops, two more that second Shauna Coxsey and third Anna Stöhr.

She crushed it in front of the amazing home crowd.

Location: Log-Dragomer, Slovenia
Event: IFSC World Cup (Bouldering)
Climber: Mina Markovic
Date: 22.4.2012
Filmed with: Canon EOS 600D, thx Canon Adria

Qualifications MAN - Climbing Worldcup (B), Log from Žiga Janež on Vimeo.

Event: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (Bouldering) - qualifications
Location: Log-Dragomer, Slovenia
Date: 21st April 2012

Boulder: M-5A and M-5B (last boulder)
Climbers: Jakob Schubert, Jernej Kruder, Glarion Mondet Guillaume and Sean McColl

Music: Professor Kliq - Surfs Up (Eat Shit)
Thanks to: Canon Adria, Mosp, www.sloclimbing.com

Bouldering World Cup 2012: Chongqing, China

Men's results
1. Jakob SCHUBERT
2. Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET
3. Rustam GELMANOV

Women's results
1. Akiyo NOGUCHI
2. Anna STÖHR
3. Jain KIM

Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) and Jakob Schubert (AUT) are the gold medalists of the 2012 IFSC World Cup first event, held in Chongqing, China.

The Best of Lincoln Lake

アナやキリアンが外で登っているのを見るのは初めてかもしれません。

The Best of Lincoln Lake from BEAR CAM MEDIA on Vimeo.

2011

Jimmy Webb and Brian Antheunisse @ Lincoln Lake from BEAR CAM MEDIA on Vimeo.

Jimmy climbs Vanilla Sky V13, Purple is not a Color V10, and gets the First Ascents of: Dismantlng the Enemy V12, Heads or Tails - CORRECTION - V11/12, Guillotine V10, and Snaggletooth V7. Brian climbs Evil Backwards V13. Wolverineland, Mt Evans, Colorado

[Comp] AVS Boulderfestival Brixen 2011

AVS Boulderfestival Brixen 2011 Flic from Berni Kogler on Vimeo.

Der Alpenverein Südtirol präsentiert das Boulderfestival der Extraklasse. Mit besonderer Unterstützung der Stadt Brixen

Mit dabei Adam Ondra, Kilian Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Daniel Woods und viele mehr.

Film&Cut: Berni Kogler
Kamera: Berni Kogler, Christian Url
Interview: Bia Grabner

Sponsoren: Sportler, Edelrid, Alpenstoff, DOB, Bank The Future

[Comp] Bouldering World Cup 2011: Munich

Men's Results
1. Dimitry Sharafutdinov RUS 4t4 4b4
2. Rustam Gelmanov RUS 4t7 4b6
3. Alexey Rubstov RUS 2t4 4b6
4. Klemen Becan SLO 1t1 4b4
5. Mykhaylo Shalagin UKR 1t1 4b8
6. Kilian Fischhuber AUT 2t3 3b4

Women's Results
1. Mina Markovic SLO 3t7 3b7
2. Juliane Wurm GER 2t4 3b3
3. Anna Stöhr AUT 1t1 3b3
4. Shauna Coxsey GBR 1t1 3b10
5. Yana Chereshneva RUS 1t1 3b13
6. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 1t2 2b3

2011 Bouldering World Cup Men’s Overall Results
1. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT)
2. Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS)
3. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet (FRA)
4. Tsukuru Hori (JPN)
5. Alexey Rubstov (RUS)
6. Rustam Gelamanov (RUS)

2011 Bouldering World Cup Women’s Overall Results
1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)
2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
3. Alex Puccio (USA)
4. Melissa Le Neve (FRA)
5. Mina Markovic (SLO)
6. Juliane Wurm (GER)

The IFSC Bouldering World Cup closed last Saturday with the event in Munich, Germany. The competition awarded the World Cup titles to the Austrians Anna Stöhr -- winner of the World Championship in Arco -- and to Kilian Fischhuber, although neither of them stepped up for the first place in Munich. In the women's field, the Slovenian Mina Markovic gains the gold medal with 3 tops 3 out of 4; the home athlete Juliane Wurm, galvanized by her public, sends one boulder more than Anna Stöhr and thus gets the silver medal, with Stohr in third place. The Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov, World Champion in Arco, shows again his great shape with four boulders climbed on first attempt; but most impressive is the fact that only Russian athletes are on the podium at the last bouldering competition of the year: Rustam Gelmanov is second, and Alexey Rubtsov is third.

Boulder Worldcup Munich 2011 from Vertical-Axis on Vimeo.

Some Impressions from the last Boulder Worldcup 2011 in Munich!

Enjoy, the Vertical-Axis Team !

WC Munchen 2011 from andreas on Vimeo.

Me in 2nd,3rd and 4th qualification boulder

[Comp] Adidas Rockstars 2011

[Comp] Arco 2011: Boulder

Men's results
1. Dmitry Sharafutdinov
2. Adam Ondra
3. Rustam Gelmanov
4. Kilian Fischuber
5. Cedric Lachat
6. Thomas Tauporn

Women's results
1. Anna Stöhr
2. Sasha DiGiulian
3. Juliane Wurm
4. Yana Chereshneva
5. Akiyo Noguchi
6. Olga Bibik

I momenti più intensi delle finali, il pubblico caldissimo ed emozionato in ogni istante. Intervista al tracciatore Alberto Gnerro e impressioni di Marco Ballerini.
Un video che vuole dare un punto di vista un po' diverso dalla documentazione sportiva vera e propria.

Anna Stöhr's way through the (semi-) Finals towards being bouldering world champion 2011. Unlike at the BWCs, the organizers made it difficult to film for anybody who didn't pay for TV rights. We hope you'll enjoy this little clip nevertheless!
The Arco World Championships was a two faced affair, at least concerning the bouldering. On the bright side was solid route setting, stunning performances and the realization how high the standard is meanwhile, especially in countries that usually don't compete in the world cups (for many reasons). On the dark side we an arrogant organization that was unable to cope with the many competitors and clearly not interested in bouldering at all. Lets start with the bright side though!

We have 2 well-deserved winners!
Bouldering World Championships have their own rule, one is, "they all boulder well, and in the end a russian boy wins!" (as it has been from 2005 on). When Rustam Gelmanov and Dmitry Sharafutdinov executed their first problems in the semis it became clear to all their competitors that they intended to write this rule in stone.
The same is not quite true for the girls, but how Yana Chereshneva and Olga Bibik managed to show this year's best performances when it is the most important is a secret all other athletes and coaches would like to know! They both climbed easier into the final than ... Anna, who was on the brink of repeating "the best unsuccessful climbing you can possibly see" as in Sheffield and Barcelona. In the semis she cruised problem 1-3 only to be stopped with the delicate match on problem #4. The semis were again dominated by Jule Wurm who is clearly the strongest female climber around without a mayor title!

The cards are re-shuffled (at least for the non-russians)
Anna Stöhr, who just had had one of her darkest moments when she couldn't do problem #4 in the semis was a different person in the finals and put up an almost flawless performance. She was the undisputed winner in the finals. Second became the very well climbing Sasha Digiulian, who apparently benefited from the rather conventional route setting and, most of all, not expecting too much! That seemed to be the problem of Jule, who temporarily lost her Mojo in the finals and ended up on third place. The tragic hero of the finals though was Akiyo Noguchi who, on problem #1, forgot everything she knows about bouldering! In the world cups Akiyo always has been "the girls without nerves" - but here in Arco, on that Sunday afternoon ... well, we are all human beings and no machines after all!
That is, except Dmitry! Hindered only by the weird politics of his home country to give Kilian a run for the world cup, he was in every second and on every problem the alpha male of the comp and became world champion for the second time after 2007. Rustam also kept on climbing brilliantly but had to let Adam Ondra pass and took the bronze medal. And how about Kilian? A Akiyoesque Mojo loss I would say! The most successful competition climber of all times has to wait for his first world championship title till next year in Paris. Good luck, Kilian!

"If water is scarce, drink less and it will last longer"
- Angelo Seneci, MC of the Arco Rockmaster and apparently put into the position of a feudalistic
emperor for these world championships, when being informed that there is not enough water in the isolation zone.
I'm not psyched to write about the dark aspects of this event and not interested in all the politics, but if Arco was a glimpse into what happens if climbing becomes Olympic - sign me out! Angelo's quote pretty much sums his personality up, for him the athletes are just the ticket for selling TV rights. It was heart wrenching to see competitors from countries like Peru or Iran arriving 2 minutes late at their problem, misguided by the over-extended personnel, while Angelo chased competitors off places he thinks they don't belong. That happened for example to Anna just after winning and taking place at the always empty "VIP" seats.
All of Angelo's efforts to put up a good show and to sell TV rights with it of course brings our sport forward, who knows if the next great climber wasn't in front of a TV, getting inspired by what he/she saw?
That the IFSC gave Angelo full reign over their championships though is a sign of weakness in my book though, lets hope that future championships will be about sport first and TV events second!

The Arco World Championships was a two faced affair, at least concerning the bouldering. On the bright side was solid route setting, stunning performances and the realization how high the standard is meanwhile, especially in countries that usually don't compete in the world cups (for many reasons). On the dark side we an arrogant organization that was unable to cope with the many competitors and clearly not interested in bouldering at all. Lets start with the bright side though! (see pics from Arco from the perspective of the German bouldering team here!)
We have 2 well-deserved winners!

Bouldering World Championships have their own rule, one is, "they all boulder well, and in the end a russian boy wins!" (as it has been from 2005 on). When Rustam Gelmanov and Dmitry Sharafutdinov executed their first problems in the semis it became clear to all their competitors that they intended to write this rule in stone.
The same is not quite true for the girls, but how Yana Chereshneva and Olga Bibik managed to show this year's best performances when it is the most important is a secret all other athletes and coaches would like to know! They both climbed easier into the final than ... Anna, who was on the brink of repeating "the best unsuccessful climbing you can possibly see" as in Sheffield and Barcelona. In the semis she cruised problem 1-3 only to be stopped with the delicate match on problem #4. The semis were again dominated by Jule Wurm who is clearly the strongest female climber around without a mayor title!

The cards are re-shuffled (at least for the non-russians)

Anna Stöhr, who just had had one of her darkest moments when she couldn't do problem #4 in the semis was a different person in the finals and put up an almost flawless performance. She was the undisputed winner in the finals. Second became the very well climbing Sasha Digiulian, who apparently benefited from the rather conventional route setting and, most of all, not expecting too much! That seemed to be the problem of Jule, who temporarily lost her Mojo in the finals and ended up on third place. The tragic hero of the finals though was Akiyo Noguchi who, on problem #1, forgot everything she knows about bouldering! In the world cups Akiyo always has been "the girls without nerves" - but here in Arco, on that Sunday afternoon ... well, we are all human beings and no machines after all!
That is, except Dmitry! Hindered only by the weird politics of his home country to give Kilian a run for the world cup, he was in every second and on every problem the alpha male of the comp and became world champion for the second time after 2007. Rustam also kept on climbing brilliantly but had to let Adam Ondra pass and took the bronze medal. And how about Kilian? A Akiyoesque Mojo loss I would say! The most successful competition climber of all times has to wait for his first world championship title till next year in Paris. Good luck, Kilian!

"If water is scarce, drink less and it will last longer"
- Angelo Seneci, MC of the Arco Rockmaster and apparently put into the position of a feudalistic emperor for these world championships, when being informed that there is not enough water in the isolation zone.
I'm not psyched to write about the dark aspects of this event and not interested in all the politics, but if Arco was a glimpse into what happens if climbing becomes Olympic - sign me out! Angelo's quote pretty much sums his personality up, for him the athletes are just the ticket for selling TV rights. It was heart wrenching to see competitors from countries like Peru or Iran arriving 2 minutes late at their problem, misguided by the over-extended personnel, while Angelo chased competitors off places he thinks they don't belong. That happened for example to Anna just after winning and taking place at the always empty "VIP" seats.
All of Angelo's efforts to put up a good show and to sell TV rights with it of course brings our sport forward, who knows if the next great climber wasn't in front of a TV, getting inspired by what he/she saw?
That the IFSC gave Angelo full reign over their championships though is a sign of weakness in my book though, lets hope that future championships will be about sport first and TV events second!

[Comp] Bouldering World Cup 2011: Eindhoven

Men’s Final Results
1. Kilian Fischhuber AUT 4t5 4b4
2. Daniel Woods USA 4t6 4b5
3. Francois Kaiser FRA 3t5 4b4
4. Dmitry Sharafutdinov 3t7 3b3
5. Thomas Caleyron FRA 3t8 4b9
6. David Barrans GBR 1t1 4b11

Women’s Final Results
1. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t6 4b5
2. Anna Stöhr AUT 4t8 4b7
3. Melissa Le Neve FRA 3t6 4b6
4. Juliane Wurm GER 2t4 3b5
5. Anne-Laure Chevrier FRA 2t7 3b10
6. Petra Klingler SUI 1t1 2b2

■Boulder World Cup 2011 - Eindhoven

It's Kilian and Akiyo, once again. At the new outdoor venue - in the square designed by Massimiliano Fuksass - Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) beat Daniel Woods (USA) by 2 attempts to send all boulders in the final round, while the French François Kaiser steps in third place with 3 problems completed.
In the women's field, Akiyo Noguchi, from Japan, claims back the first place by sending the four final boulders by the routesetter Jamie Cassidy in 6 attempts, against Anna Stöhr's 8 attempts. Melissa Le Neve (FRA) got the bronze medal with 3 tops out of 4.
Fischhuber is now leading the World Cup Ranking 2011 with 409 points, while Dmitry Sharafutdinov follows at 366; despite Noguchi's victory, Stöhr is still at the top of the women's ranking for 2011 with 540 points, against Noguchi's 429.

■IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Eindhoven- 2011

[Comp] Bouldering World Cup 2011: Canmore

Men’s Final Results
1. Tsukuru Hori JPN 2t3 4b9
2. Klemen Becan SLO 2t5 4b9
3. Sean McColl CAN 1t2 3b5
4. Stefan Danker GER 0t 4b7
5. Atsushi Shimizu JPN 0t 3b5
6. Wouter Jongeneelen NED 0t 1b1

Women’s Final Results
1. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t9 4b7
2. Anna Stöhr AUT 4t10 4b6
3. Jain Kim KOR 3t12 4b14
4. Juliane Wurm GER 2t4 3b6
5. Mina Markovic SLO 1t4 2b6
6. Alex Puccio USA 0t 2b2

■Boulder World Cup 2011 report - Canmore

The Japanese Tsukuru Hori and Akiyo Noguchi conquered the gold medals in the Male and Female categories, respectively with 2 and 4 problems completed in the Finals.
In the Men's category, the Slovenian Klemen Becan continued his lucky series with the second place, while one boulder topped meant the third place for the home athlete Sean McColl.
The Austrian Anna Stöhr ranked second behind Noguchi, both topped all 4 boulders but Anna took 1 more attempt. Jain Kim (KOR) took bronze, with 3 tops.
Canmore was a unique event, 75mm of snow fell the night before the qualification and the athletes certainly relished the experience.

■IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Canmore- 2011

[Comp] Bouldering World Cup 2011: Vail

Men’s Final Results
1. Kilian Fischhuber AUT 4t4 4b4
2. Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 4t5 4b5
3. Jonas Baumann GER 2t4 4b6
4. Rei Sugimoto JPN 2t11 4b13
5. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet FRA 0t 4b9
6. Chris Webb-Parsons AUS 0t 3b14

Women’s Final Results
1. Anna Stöhr AUT 4t7 4b7
2. Alex Puccio USA 3t3 3b3
3. Melissa Le Neve FRA 3t8 4b9
4. Jain Kim KOR 2t3 2b2
5. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t4 2b2
6. Angie Payne USA 2t7 3b7

A great final round at the IFSC Bouldering World Cup of Vail assigned the victory to the Austrian team, with Fischhuber and Stöhr on the highest step of the podium. The atmosphere in Vail, in the framework of the well known Teva Mountain Games, was vibrant with excitement and expectation for what promised to be a perfect competition, and the cheers of the audience accompanied the athletes all the time, psyching them up.
Kilian Fischhuber mastered the finals by flashing all boulders, while his Russian rival, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, made one attempt too much in sending all four problems. Third, with a bronze medal, the German Jonas Baumann, with two tops in 4 attempts.
Anna Stöhr, in great shape, was the only woman to top all four boulders, while Alex Puccio (USA) and Melissa Le Neve sent only 3 in respectively 3 and 8 attempts.
Kilian now is very close to the first ranked in the Boulder WC Ranking 2011, the Russian Sharafutdinov; Anna leads at a distance the women ranking, with Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) in second position.

Bouldering World Cup Mens Finals • Vail, Colorado • 2011 • LT11 from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Men's finals at the 2011 Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado.

1st - Kilian Fischhuber AUT
2nd - Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS
3rd - Jonas Baumann GER
4th - Rei Sugimoto JPN
5th - Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA
6th - Chris Webb-Parsons AUS

Bouldering World Cup Womens Finals • Vail, Colorado • 2011 • LT11 from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Women's finals at the 2011 Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado.


1st - Anna Stohr AUS
2nd - Alex Puccio USA
3rd - Melissa Le Neve FRA
4th - Jain Kim KOR
5th - Akiyo Noguchi JPN
6th - Angie Payne USA

Highlights from the Men's and Women's Bouldering World Championships, Teva Games 2011 in Vail, Colorado.

Highlights from the 2011 IFSC Bouldering World Cup presented by GoalZero at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado.

The Teva Mountain Games are a project of the Vail Valley Foundation. Complete event details can be found at www.tevamountaingames.com.

Anna Stohr and Killan Fischhuber Win Teva World Cup from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.

Austrian powerhouses Anna Stohr and Killan Fischhuber float the problems at the the 2011 Teva Mountain Games World Cup in Vail, June 4. Alex Puccio placed second in women's, and was the only American who made it to the finals.

[Comp] Bouldering World Cup 2011: Vienna

Men’s Final Results
1. Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 1t4 4b7
2. Klemen Becan SLO 1t5 4b12
3. Lukas Ennemose AUT 0t 3b9
4. Loïc Gaidioz FRA 0t 2b2
5. Jernej Kruder SLO 0t 2b2
6. Rustam Gelamanov RUS 0t 2b6

Women’s Final Results
1. Anna Stöhr AUT 4t13 4b4
2. Alex Puccio USA 2t2 3b3
3. Olga Shalagina UKR 1t1 3b3
4. Jain Kim KOR 1t1 2b2
5. Anne-Laure Chevrier FRA 1t3 4b9
6. Petra Klingler SUI 1t4 4b8

■Boulder World Cup 2011 report - Vienna

Anna Stöhr won her second World Cup in a row in Vienna and is leading the women's ranking after the third event with quite a margin. With the boys, the situation is a bit more complicated since Kilian Fischhuber got stuck in the qualification round. After his second place in Slovenia, Dmitry Sharafutdinov was climbing really well again and rightfully won in Vienna. Barely a week after Slovenia, the Vienna event didn't quite match that event, the stage is really too low and the audience had a hard time to watch especially the lower parts of the problems. Route setting was most good (just a bit too hard at the boys finals) with some pretty bad problems thrown in, more on that after a closer analyses...

■IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Vienna - 2011

Highlights of the Boulderig WC in Vienna (AUT)

[Comp] Bouldering World Cup 2011: Log-Dragomer, Slovenia

Men’s Final Results
1. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet FRA 3t3 4b6
2. Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 3t6 4b9
3. Kilian Fischhuber AUT 2t3 4b6
4. Loïc Gaidioz FRA 2t5 4b11
5. Alexey Rubstov RUS 1t1 4b5
6. Fabien Comina FRA 0t 4b9

Women’s Final Results
1. Anna Stöhr AUT 2t3 4b6
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t6 3b6
3. Alex Puccio USA 1t3 3b6
4. Katja Vidmar SLO 0t 3b10
5. Jenny Lavarda ITA 0t 1b1
6. Natalija Gros 0t 1b2

■Boulder World Cup 2011 report - Log-Dragomer

Anna Stöhr and Glairon Mondet Guillaume were the undisputed winners of the second Boulder World Cup of 2011 that will be always remembered for its funky route setting, especially for the girls. The uncoated panels allowed for some truly remarkable problems that spanned from demanding rather old school but highly refined climbing skills to the most new school jumps. The problems only had one thing in common: they were all awkward! As chief route setter Percy Bishton put it: "A nightmare for the competitors, but hey, I'm not paid for being nice!" For the audience that was one of the best Boulder World Cups ever!

■IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Log Dragomer - 2011

Highlights of the Bouldering WC in Log Dragomer - SLO

[Comp] Bouldering World Cup 2011: Milan Final

Boulder Men
1 Fischhuber Kilian 1983 AUT 4t9 4b5
2 Schubert Jakob 1990 AUT 3t3 3b3
3 Gelmanov Rustam 1987 RUS 3t6 3b6
4 Glairon Mondet Guillaume 1986 FRA 3t8 4b8
5 Sharafutdinov Dmitry 1986 RUS 3t11 4b12
6 Hori Tsukuru 1989 JPN 1t6 3b9

Boulder Women
1 Kim Jain 1988 KOR 3t5 3b4
2 Stöhr Anna 1988 AUT 2t4 4b7
3 Le Neve Melissa 1989 FRA 2t4 4b9
4 Noguchi Akiyo 1989 JPN 2t6 3b8
5 Markovic Mina 1987 SLO 5169 1t1 3b3
6 Puccio Alex 1989 USA 8654 1t6 4b9
■Boulder World Cup 2011 report - Milano

Jain Kim and Kilian Fischhuber were the winners of the first Boulder World Cup of the 2011 season in Milano. I kept the report rather short since I already uploaded most of the individual boulder problems, still, the split screens really give so much more information about the route setting but also about the technique of the competitors! As usual, check out www.ifsc-climbing.org for all additional info and www.udini.com for "behind-the-scenes" reports.

■IFSC Bouldering&Speed World Cup - Milano - 2011

Highlights of the Bouldering and Speed World Cup in Milano (ITA)

■BWC_2011_Milano_F_Male_1

■BWC 2011 Milano F Male 2

■BWC_2011_Milano_F_Male_3

■BWC_2011_Milano_F_Male_4

■BWC_2011_Milano_F_Female_1

■BWC_2011_Milano_F_Female_2

■BWC_2011_Milano_F_Female_3

■BWC_2011_Milano_F_Female_4

Mammut Teamtrip with Anna Stöhr, Alex Johnson, David Lama, Céderic Lachat, Magnus Midtboe and Jakob Schubert

■Mammut Teamtrip Peak District 2010

Full steam ahead! The 2010 team trip is taking the Mammut athletes Anna Stöhr, Alex Johnson, David Lama, Céderic Lachat, Magnus Midtboe and Jakob Schubert to Sheffield in the north of England. The raw gritstone blocks and puritanical climbing etiquette of the legendary Peak District offer an attractive prospect. Cordless drills have no place in the Peak District, which has a clean climbing ethic.

■Mammut Teamtrip Kyrgyzstan

Unsettled terrain, broad steppes, steep rock faces. In late summer 09 the Mammut pro team Nina Caprez, Stephan Siegrist, David Lama and Giovanni Quirici travelled to distant Kyrgyzstan, where they undertook a spectacular 18-pitch big wall first ascent on Asan (4,230 m) in the untouched Karavshin Valley.

■Mammut Teamtrip Malaysia

Jungle fever - 91 routes in 9 days! In just over a week, on their Mammut Mission Malaysia, David Lama and Reini Scherer rapidly opened up two completely new areas - including three of the most difficult routes in Asia! They were actively supported in these first ascents by the sultan and the European climbing elite. In Malaysia: Cédric Lachat (CH), Christina Schmid (CH), Anna Stöhr (A), Katharina Saurwein (A) and Juliane Wurm (D).

■Mammut Teamtrip Urban Climbing

Mammut gone astray. The Urban Climbing team trip led the athletes Stephan Siegrist, David Lama, Christina Schmid, Anna Stöhr, Barbara Bacher and Magnus Midtbö onto unchartered territory for once -- the city. From Italy to Austria to Switzerland, the climbers followed their unchanging mission of bringing the mountains to the city.

2010年のボルダリングワールドカップ総括：選手インタビュー / Route Setting at the Boulder World Cup 2010 - what the competitors think

ボルダリングワールドカップのルートセッティングについて、トップ選手、コーチ、それにこのビデオの作者のウド・ノイマンが語ります。登場する選手はアダム・オンドラ、野口啓代、キリアン・フィッシュフーバー、アンナ・シュテール、堀創、アレックス・ジョンソン、ミナ・マコービックなどなど、トップ選手はだいたい出演。

■Route Setting at the Boulder World Cup 2010 - what the competitors think

Interviews of all the top competitors about what they thought of the route setting at the Boulder World Cups 2010. I finished editing this clip late last night and was struck again what a inspiring and spirited person Chloé Graftiaux is when I learned today about her tragic accident. The reason for the video, "route setting" is trivial by now of course, but it gives a glimpse of what a great human being Chloé was.
In memoriam Chloé Graftiaux. July 18,1987 - August 21, 2010

そして、上のビデオの完成直前に亡くなったクロエ・グラフティオ･･･。ご冥福をお祈りします。

■Chloé Graftiaux, 2010 Bouldering World Cup - Interview before Munich

De passage à Annecy avant la dernière étape de la coupe du monde de bloc 2010, Chloé Graftiaux nous a accordé une petite interview. Entre sourires et souvenirs, elle revient avec nous sur sa grande forme et son très bon parcours dans la compétition.

--

While in Annecy before the last competition of the 2010 bouldering world cup in Munich, Chloé Graftiaux gave us a short interview. Between smiles and memories, she told us about her recent great performances and her hopes for Munich.

- Music -

Artist : Sach
Track : Number 9
Extract from : The Sound of L.A Vol.2, Plug Research, 2006.